Saturday, December 31, 2011

2011 - The Year that Was(n't)

Wow, it's 2012 already. It seems like 2011 just flew by and yet, when I look back, it was a decent year with a few ups and downs and certainly better than 2010, so that's a plus. I feel like I did more, accomplished more and even with a few of the real curveballs 2011 threw me I was still able to have a good time.

I guess the three biggest things that stick out for me involve changing jobs very unexpectedly, visiting Canada for the first time in years and venturing to Taiwan and many new places in Korea.

The most eventful time was certainly in April and May when SEI was shutting down and I was basically unemployed. Looking back they were good about it, but it was still very unexpected and it did throw a real wrench in my plans to start courses at Keimyung in September. However it really did all work out in the end as I have a new job with a great boss and great coworkers. I'll also be able to start at least a language class at Keimyung in March if I want to. Looking back at my blogs at the time I noted that this shakeup was probably good for me, even if it didn't feel like it at the time. Well I was right. I probably was getting a bit too comfy there.

What the job change did allow me to do was have an extended holiday in Vancouver (8 weeks). I managed two trips to Vancouver Island and saw a bunch of places that I hadn't seen in years. It's amazing how little North Van has changed in so many ways. I was real happy to catch up with Elliot and Allan and meet Jaclyn and her new husband Chris. I met up with Steph, who I went to uni with and is now teaching in China and it was great to compare notes and hang out. I didn't see everyone I wanted or as often as I wanted to (I only managed one visit with Jenn :( ) but I hope to go back again next year (2013) so hopefully I can meet anyone I missed then. It was also great to see family and see how everyone is doing. Cousins who I think of as being 15 are now in university. Again I didn't see all the family as much as I wanted, but I did see just about everyone at least once.

Finally Taiwan was an epic trip. I really fell in love with Taipei and would love to go back at some point soon. It's an amazing place that western tourism has largely overlooked, but hopefully that will change soon. I also managed a huge chunk of Korea, including Chuncheongdo in great detail and way more cities in Gyeongsang. I also managed to explore more of Seoul.

Other accomplishments include joining a gym, improving my Korean language skills and cutting most booze out (not that a kettle of Makkeoli on a special occasion isn't very welcome). However I feel that I failed to get back to school, which was a big goal for 2011. I had wanted to do courses in Korea that transferred to Canadian universities but with the mess at SEI I was gone for key dates and didn't go. I feel that is something I have to fix. I also wanted to drop serious weight, which I have not done yet (I've lost a bit, but I mean really get fit). I hope that the gym and less booze will start me off in that direction.

As for 2012, my resolutions are to drop 20 lbs to end my 20's (I turn 30 this year.....), get back to school with the aim of being qualified to teach public schools or College kids by 2013 and full uni kids by 2014 and having transferrable courses should I want to finish the degree in Canada. I also am adamant about China this summer, even if it's only for a week.

Well here's wishing everyone a great 2012 (don't listen to the Mayans or Hollywood, it'll be a great year).

A Trip Down to Busan

With Thursday and Friday being days for my academy I decided to make the most of my time, do some much needed shopping and head down to Busan. Bobby, who has the week off decided to join me, as he had never been to Busan before. Kris wanted to come to to see where Nopodong market was and get some new clothes in a western size.

I met Kris at 9 and we headed off to Dongdaegu. We got on the same train as Bobby but were three cars down so we just met at Busan Station. Busan was in full Christmas mode with trees and lights up everywhere. Actually it was cool and it did make the city feel different that in the summertime when I usually go and when the city is considered to be "at its best". We first headed for coffee and up Nampodong tower, something I have done numerous times but neither of them had done. Everyone liked it and it was a decently clear day. Under the tower they had a photo studio of shots of Busan going back to 1890. It's amazing to see how quickly it has grown. In 1950 it looked like Cambodia, in 1970 it looked like how Bangkok looks today and yet in 2011 it is an ultramodern city. Really neat to stop and browse.

We then went to Jalgachi fish market to see the largest fish market in Korea and get some very fresh sashimi for lunch. Watching an old lady wrestle with an octopus as another one makes a break for it is always entertaining :) Then off to Nopodong where I got new jeans. Both Kris and Bobby loved Busan, which is also my favourite city in Korea. We then headed back to Daegu and Sangin for Makkeoli at the dear leaders Makkeoli jip before calling it a night.

Believe it or not, out of water he can still really move

Cool shot as we were leaving

Merry Christmas Jews?

Nampodong in 1954

Nampodong in 2011


Live action Jagalchi



A great last trip out of Daegu in 2011.

Tuesday, December 27, 2011

Starting at the gym

ohhh a gym,

I've heard of these places before, but a youth spent with warehouse jobs and then, well getting fat, means I haven't really spent much time in them. All that changed when my corworker Mike and I went down to the Health club Jay uses (who is built and knows his stuff) and signed up. We did our first workout today and while I'm somewhat ashamed of how much upper body muscle I've lost in the last couple of years it felt great to get back in to it, and I'm already excited for tomorrow.

I can see why people do this every day.

Sunday, December 25, 2011

Christmas Weather

Okay, this might be a boring/stupid post, but over the last few years I've managed to make a few friends who are now all over the globe and who I've been wishing a Merry Christmas. It's weird to think how different Christmas would be if you had been born in Mexico or Thailand or Australia. So I thought I'd have a look at what it's like for people I know today who have sent me Xmas greetings in the last few weeks. These are daytime highs:

For me in Daegu it's bright and sunny, and not counting the windchill it's 1.
For my family in Vancouver it's cloudy and 8.
For my friends Bobby, Jenny and Kwangho in Seoul it's a sunny -5.
For my friends Mumi and Jason in Bangkok it's a sunny 26.
My friend Serena, who is in Korea now but originally from Taipei, would be enjoying a sunny 16.
For Paul, who will be back in Palmerston North, New Zealand by the end of the week, it's a sunny 23.
My friend Steph in Dalian, China is enjoying a sunny -3.
Kurt in San Diego is enjoying a sunny 22.
My sister in Scotland (though the report is for Edinburgh, not where she is) is apparently having a rainy 11.
My friend David in Beijing is enjoying a sunny 4.
For Ange in Cheongju it's a sunny, clear -3.
For Leanne in Toronto it's a partially cloudy 1.
For Kris and Miranda in Halifax it's -2.
My friend Pearl in Shenzhen, China (across the border from Hong Kong) is having a sunny 17.


Interesting (or not).

Saturday, December 24, 2011

Christmas 2011

Well being late afternoon Christmas Day I think I can start a write up of Christmas. I'm relaxing with Elvis Presley's Christmas album. I woke up around 10 after being up til 330 watching Christmas films. I immediately got on skype with my Mom for a while and then cooked breakfast. Unlike last year when I went for a Korean style Christmas this year I did pancakes, coffee cakes and fruit, though being one of my new toys is a tea pot especially for green tea I've been knocking back the Chinese tea fairly hard with my coffee. I  skyped with my Dad and his side of the family before settling in to another Christmas film and some buns. Tonight I'm going to try to get my sister in Scotland and my Mom in Vancouver at the same time on skype. We'll see how that works. I had thought about a Christmas dinner too but to be honest I'm not a big fan of cooking and I've already done a big brunch so I may get lazy and order in :P We'll see. It's been a quiet, relaxing Christmas which is exactly what I wanted, and being that the daytime high is -4 with the windchill I'm more than happy to stay in.

To everyone around the world, Merry Christmas :)

Kim Jong Update

as a quick follow up to last weeks big news from the north.

It looks like Kim Jong Un, or the "great successor" will be taking over the helm of the DPRK with some help from him uncle Sung Taek and military leaders. It's interesting that there seems to be no one leader as there has been since 1945, which is an interesting divergence and, oddly enough, what happened in China after Mao's death. While I think we are still a ways away from Pyongyang hosting the Olympics it's actually a good start. Of course no one knows with certainty what is happening, but it seems the Fox News prediction of Santa weaving between mushroom clouds this Christmas is not going to be.

Lee Myung Bak, the President of the Republic of Korea (south) has sent condolences to "the people of north Korea" which is a difference from 1994 when Kim Il Sung died and the south did nothing. The ROK will not send a delegation to the north but small groups can go with the approval of the Ministry of Unification. Hyundai, who set up a plant in Kaesong (DPRK) under a joint management system will send a delegation. I think the south is handling it well. Not sending high level delegations and pretending they are sad about Kim's death (cause let's be honest, they're not) but sending informal delegates and wishing the people of the DPRK well instead. I think it's a good balance that will not go unnoticed in the north.

As to the video's of Korean's weeping hysterically for Kim. My personal take is that for people in Pyongyang it's probably real. They are the priviledged who have luxuries that most north Koreans don't have, such as food. Really they have nice modern apartments paid for by the state and would not be affected by seeing south Korean drama's, as their lives would be comparable. For the average peasant it's hard to say. I mean, a guy imprisons your family, starves you and makes your son spend 15 years in the military it's hard to believe that there would be much affection for him, but by all accounts from comparable situations the grief is real. Russians of the time genuinely grieved for Stalin's death, the suicide rate even spiked that week. Chinese today still venerate Mao Zedong and by all accounts his death was seen as a real loss. However, peasant north Koreans can buy bootleg south Korean drama's in China and they circulate in the north despite the ban. Chances are they have seen these shows and the production value alone would make it clear that they are not doing that badly. I mean, watch two Seoulites talk over a cup of coffee in a Korean movie would be a luxury unimagineable to these people, and from most accounts many northerners have seen this. North Korean defectors have also said that Kim Il Sung was genuinely loved by his people, as he was an actual revolutionary and guerilla fighter (say what you will about him, he was out there in -20 Manchurian nights bombing Japanese railroads and getting in to battles with Japanese troops in the 1930's and 1940's). There were also no major famines under him. In fact, in the 1960's north Korea was considered the more successful state. In contrast Kim Jong-Il was apparently less loved for the reasons outlined above. My guess is that much of the grief in Pyongyang is genuine (though the spontaneous eruption of tears at the news of his death is clearly staged) and the tears elsewhere may be a mix of grief and fear. Not fear for what will happen if you don't cry, but fear of what will happen next. Monarchical successions are tough at any time, and for a country that has endured 15 years of famine and starvation the unknown might be enough to make some people cry out of pure frustration and anger. I guess we'll have to wait for the north to collapse before we'll ever really know.

As for how it will all turn out. Kim Jong-Un lived in Switzerland as a teenager and is apparently an avid NBA fan. If he has real power he may wish to open up or be forced to to survive. However if he is merely a figurehead with Sung Taek and the military in real control then change may still be a ways away. As to predictions of impending doom in Korea. Don't be on it, it's the Japanese who do the suicide thing en masse.

Happy Festivus!

Well it's that time of year again. It is again Christmas on the peninsula and I am settling in for a very merry one. I have Alastair Sim's Scrooge, Miracle on 34th Street, Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer and the Trailer Park Boys Dear Santa Go Fuck Yourself. The classics.

Actually Christmas snuck up on me this year. I left work friday saying "have a good weekend" and my boss said "Merry Christmas" and it dawned on me that Sunday would in fact be Christmas. I guess with everything happening in Korea both personally and politically it was easy to let it slip by, and it almost did. However, Friday night I decorated a tree properly that I had put up and put lights on a while back. I had Elvis' Christmas album and then watched Rudolph and Home Alone. Today was a final shopping day (not crazy like last minute shopping in Canada is, just regular Korean Saturday shopping crazy......... ok so I guess it's about the same). Tonight is eating and watching more Christmas movies before a Sunday of gift swapping and skype chats with the family in Canada and Scotland.

So for everyone in Korea, Canada or anywhere else. Merry Christmas!

Sunday, December 18, 2011

Kim Jong-Il is dead, long live Kim Jong-Un

Really. Kim is dead at age 69. He died Saturday morning and it was announced today on North Korean TV which was picked up in the south. The south is on full military alert but my guess (hope) is that it won't be necessary. Everyone panicked in 1994 when Kim Il-Sung died but power was transferred successfully. As in most monarchical successions (it is a Confucian monarchy up there, NOT a communist regime) there's always danger, but it looks like his son Kim Jung-Un will be taking over the reigns of the DPRK.

I'm sure more news will come in the days ahead and I'll try to post it as I hear about it. Still, a big news morning here on the peninsula.

Best beers in Asia

Well a post like this has been a while overdue. Having travelled a fair bit of this section of the globe, and sampled cuisine from much more of it, I think I have had a fair bit of what Asia has to offer. So with that in mind I thought I'd name a few of my favourite beers by country and brand and hopefully recommend a few to people who enjoy a good brew. Asia is actually a fantastic destination for quality brews, with many coming from colonial times when Brits, Germans and Americans built breweries or when locals went to those locations to study brewing. In Japan's case they sent brewmasters to Germany to learn their brewing techniques and brought them back to Japan in the 1880's (before mass brewing perfected by Anheiser-Busch existed).

Two countries that in my mind make top quality beers are:

1) Japan - This is an area where the Japanese excel. Asahi, Sapporo, Suntory and Kirin are all world class export beers. Yebisu, available only in Japan, is in my opinion better than any of these, should also be on that list of exports, and hopefully one day it will be. All four export brands are equal in taste and quality to any quality brewer in North America (ie - not Molson, Coors or Anheiser-Busch). Asahi Premium, a beer that has only been available in Korea for about a year now, is fantastic and well worth the $3 price tag.

2) Thailand. A strictly buddhist country where brewers can only establish themselves with permission from the king has nonetheless made several superior quality beers. Singha is quite possibly the best beer to have on a warm summer day (Corona being Mexican for Aztec urine) but also enjoyable when it cools down. It's flavourful and well worth it. Chang is another decent Thai beer that is worth the effort to find, although the export Chang is not half as good as what you'd get in Thailand. There is also Leo beer, popular in Thailand but almost impossible to find elsewhere, that is quite tasty.


As to beers themselves I'll just make my favourite beers :

1   -  Asahi (esp. Premium)  -  Japan
2   -  Singha                         -  Thailand
3   -  Yebisu                         -  Japan
4   -  Sapporo                      -  Japan
5   -  Chang Draft                 - Thailand
6   -  San Miguel                  -  Philippines
7   -  Tsingtao                      - China
8   -  Kirin                           - Japan
9   -  Suntory                       - Japan
10 -  Taiwan Lager              - Taiwan
11 -  Tiger                           - Tiger
12 -  OB Lager                    - Korea
13 -  Leo Beer                     - Thailand
14 -  Cass                            - Korea
15 -  Saigon Beer                 - Vietnam


Some might think Tiger deserves better, but I do think that it's overrated. This also does not include domestic only beers in China and micro breweries in Japan, of which there are hundreds.


As to Korean beer well........ it's a good thing there's makkeoli. OB Golden Lager is the first Korean beer that I've had that I like enough to recommend to people. It actually has taste and doesn't have the huge markup that non-Korean beers have so it's the best option if you want a cheaper beer that still tastes good. It's still far from what is on offer in neighbouring Japan, but it's certainly tasty. However, for Korean beer that's available everywhere I'll usually buy a Cass. It's not great, but it actually has taste, which is more than can be said for its competitors Hite, OB Blue and Max, which have none. While Korean food would easily be in my top 3 for Asian cuisine (with Szechuan and Thai) it's beer leaves much to be desired.

The US announces the end of the Iraq War

The Iraq War officially ended on Thursday as President Obama agreed to withdraw all US troops from Iraq by New Years Eve, leaving only a few in Kuwait should they be needed again. It ends an event that has, in many ways, defined a generation in much the same way that Vietnam defined our parents generation. Whether you were in a country that supported the US like the UK or Australia, or a nation that opposed it like Canada, France or New Zealand the issue divided public opinion, set world leaders apart and in the end, much like Vietnam, ended with a whimper.

I remember in 2003 being in Canada, where about 40% of people polled supported the war, including the then leader of the opposition and now Prime Minister Stephen Harper. Bush had sold the world a story of a man who was actively aiding Al Qaeda, building weapons designed to kill millions and that we were mere months away from armageddon. For a US population still in shock over the 9/11 attacks and looking for security the story sold well, with up to 70% of Americans suporting the initial invasion. While nowhere else in the world had even 50% support many leaders followed Bush in, most notably British Prime Minister Tony Blair, to what was sold as a quick war where the occupying forces would be greeted as liberators.

Personally I opposed the invasion as more western colonialism and accused Bush of using 9/11 to manufacture a war that had been the dream of many of the American extreme right for a decade. It fell out fairly close to that as US troops guarded Iraqi oil fields while the Baghdad museum, home to ancient treasures dating back to the dawn of humanity, was looted and priceless object taken or destroyed. To this day the Iraqi government accounts for a quarter of all US arms sales to foreign nations (and has since 2006). The Iraqi government that has been put in place is not ideal for US needs, but with the Islamic parties and the Baath party not allowed to run in elections, it's fairly close (notice that in Egypt or Palestine, where the people rose up on their own, Islamists have done very well in elections). I wonder if, a few years from now, an Islamist party will win a popular election in an Iraq free of US troops. It would be a bit like the iconic evacuation of the US embassy in Saigon in 1975 and is a real possibility.

Outside the US opinion solidified fairly quickly that the Iraq war was a giant manufactured lie. It was shown that the intelligence used to show that Saddam had weapons was horrendously out of date and had already been disproven and of course, there were no weapons there. European leaders who felt that they had been lied to quickly pulled troops out until only Blair and Bush were left towing the war barge. Iraq quickly fell in to a decade of civil war and perhaps the most memorable moment of the invasion was when Bush had a shoe throw at him by a journalist and the people of Iraq built a statue of that shoe. I think that shows how grateful the Iraqi's were for their "liberation". In the end, the war ended not with surrender on an aircraft carrier, nor with a drawn out peace process in Paris but with a failure between the Iraqi government and the US government to agree on terms to renew the US-Iraqi agreement to keep the troops there. A fitting end to one of the sadder moments of western colonialism.

It also created cultural icons who opposed the war and vaulted a new generation of media pundits in to the limelight. Jon Stewart was virtually unknown on his Daily Show until he became a focus for people who were sick of the shallow reporting on "our fallen heroes" etc. and found his comedy news better than the coverage offered by CNN. Also, people who didn't want to watch a republican and a democrat argue about the same 5 issues over and over again began to watch him. It also vaulted conservative Fox News in to the limelight, as those who felt patriotism = don't question your government allowed the likes of Glenn Beck to predict doom and gloom and use his showmanship to launch his brand of baseless fearmongering in to the national spotlight and make himself a millionnaire in the process. Not that Stewart is financially hurting, but he got it by pointing out the absurdity of this whole debacle, not by telling you that democrat healthcare will lead to Nazi style euthanasia as Beck has done.

As to what we allegedly learned from this. A new generation, who had apparently forgotten the lessons of Vietnam or a new generation of Britons who had forgotten the lessons of, well the last 300 years of their history, supposedly learned to be skeptical of their leaders. To hold those in power accountable for their misdeeds. That you can't force political change with a gun and that intervention in a country's internal politics, no matter how well intentioned, leaves people resentful of you for doing so (as opposed to country A attacks country B so we all go to help country B). However Fox News remains the most popular news broadcast in America and CNN and even the BBC are still running the "fallen heroes" editorials instead of discussing what the hell just happened? My fear is that as a people we learned very little from this disaster that cost hundreds of thousands of lives and billions of dollars and helped push the western economy in to the worst recession since the depression. The real tragedy are the thousands of dead Iraqi's and the huge numbers of orphans that will grow up blaming the west for their childhoods. Also for the troops who really died and suffered for nothing. The final tragedy is that the makers of all this violence get to live free and wealthy (how big is that Bush ranch again?) while those they hurt will spend a lifetime rebuilding what was taken from them.

Hopefully Iraq folows the path of Vietnam and emerges from a decade of violence strong and independent. Maybe one day we will even be able to visit Baghdad and see the ancient city much in the same way we can now see Hanoi (who'd have imagined that in 1975, or heck 1985?). I also hope that as a species we might have learned something from this and think twice before giving in to baseless fear of the different or unknown............ and as an added bonus if we do make that evolutionary leap we can all see Glenn Beck and Lou Dobbs at the unemployment office :)

Saturday, December 17, 2011

The Mun (문) Family Home

Today being a sunny day I decided to brave the subarctic temperatures and make our way to the Mun (spelled Moon for some tourists) house for some sightseeing. The Mun family residence is actually the clan headquarters of the Mun family and is located about twenty minutes from my house. It's not exceptionally old by Korean standards, with the original buildings being made only in the 18th century, but it's a functional clan house and it is located right in the mountains. I took some great pics so here's a few shots:

me by the city wall

an alley in the clan residential area

the wall from the outside

some pine trees near the residence


Korean clans are somewhat similar to Scottish clans in structure, though in modern Korea are far less important than they are in contemporary Scotland. However, they still can determine who you can marry. For example a member of the Gimhae Kim clan who falls in love with another Kim must make sure that they are not also Gimhae Kim or else they can not get married. With Gimhae Kim being the largest Kim clan (and thus something like 8% of the Korean population) it can be a big deal for some people. However in the Joseon period (14th - 20th century) clan membership was very important. The Mun family would be a relatively small clan and would have been yangban (Korean nobility) in Daegu and Gyeongsang province, though be of lesser importance in Seoul. Their house was very well maintained and it looks like the clan puts real effort in to maintaining it.

Next to it it another Joseon era building, a seowon. Seowon's are the original hagwon's and were places where yangban studied Confucian texts with learned masters. The most famous one is Deosan Seowon in Andong and it is so revered that it is on the 1000won ($1) note (that's right, there's a hagwon on the Korean $1 bill). This one was very small in contrast and closed, but I still took a few pictures of the outside of it:

the entrance

ㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋ


It was a great day out and it was a chance to see a bit of local history, even if we had a daytime high of -2.

Thursday, December 15, 2011

winter weeks

Apologies for the lack of posts of late, but with winter rolling in here in Korea there just isn't much to write about. During the week I'm working and after work it is so frickin' cold that I just want to duck back home and turn on the heat. I have managed a few dinners out with the Hwang family, Geoff, coworkers and other friends.

Christmas is looking to be me mostly skyping with family and drinking coffee (perfect) but the week after that I have a four day New Years break. Not long enough to fly off to Japan or anything, but certainly enough to hit Busan or Seochang and maybe go west on a bus. In fact in that respect my vacation time has been set, with two short vacations this winter and a longer one this summer.

Finally, I've managed to find a place to stream Korean TV with English subtitles. The romantic drama's have made chick flick from the states seem reasonable but their historical epics are actually pretty good. Good find as at 1145am it's -3 outside.

Hope everyone stays warm today^^

Monday, December 12, 2011

anyone else have bronze age burial grounds in their neighbourhood?

Cause I do.

I discovered them On Sunday when we went for a walk after having a lazy sleep in after a busy(ish) Saturday.

Saturday morning was one of my three Saturday work days (as mentioned previously). I was there at 10:30 and out by two. It was actually okay, and some student presentations were great. Also, unlike the one presentation I did at SEI these ones are just done at the school. After that it was Mike's birthday so we went downtown to an all you can eat place and fed well. They were off to booze and club so I decided to go home and relax. Given that it was a work day it was good.

Sunday I had talked about going to Dodong Seowon or the Moon Family residence (both later Joseon era buildings, around the 17th century) but slept in a bit and so decided just to see some ruins that were walking distance from my place. Well walking distance means 15 minutes and ruins means bronze age burial mounds.

In reality it was some carefully stacked cut rocks with a large rock in the middle that had various symbols carved in to it. It was amazing mostly because it was over 2000 years old and the people there were obviously of some importance to the culture living there. Since this was done before the introduction of writing we don't know who they are or who is buried there, but that just adds to the mystery. It was only discovered in the 1990's as development rolled in to the area (it's strange to see various high rise apartments and 4-5 story walkups surrounding this little park with a bronze age monument, but that's Korea :P) and was surveyed by a team from Kyungpook University before teh city council made it a park to protect it from development. It's a great little thing to have so close to where i live, I'm sure I'll go back.

Overall it was a good, quiet weekend.

Friday, December 9, 2011

SMOE to cut 700 native teacher jobs in 2012

read a brief summary here.

Now I know some people are already saying that the jig is up. Korea has opted out of English. The esl community here will be dead soon. No more cushy high paying, low responsibility public school positions with optional sobriety! (.......well the last one is accurate). Seoul city went on the hiring spree to end all hiring sprees last year, hiring a Native English Teacher (NET) for every elementary, middle and high school in the city. That's over 1200 people. Most of these people are fresh of the boat uni grads who have nothing but their BA in Criminology which apparently is enough to teach English in Korea with absolutely no job training in their home country or in Korea (note, THAT failure is solely the responsibility of the Seoul Ministry of Education (SMOE) and not the fault of the 23 year old who applied for an available job, was hired, showed up on Sunday and was told to "go teach" on Monday). They have now decided to scale that number back. However, it's a small adjustment that really does makes sense given the cost of hiring so many people and bringing them over.

First, out of 22,000 E2 visa holders plus all the F visa holders there will be 700 less jobs, and I wonder how many hagwons will expand/open to fill the void? The fact is that the market will NOT become "flooded" with esl teachers. What will happen is that people will start to lose jobs for which they are thoroughly unqualified. I mean, the example 23 year old with a Criminology degree shows up in Seoul on a flight paid for by the Korean government. They get free accommodation in a world class city, a generous (relative to Korean standards) salary and 5 official weeks vacation (which does not include all the random days off, test days etc. where most teachers either play on facebook all day or else don't have to show up at all) and more if they can opt out (and want to opt out) or winter and summer camps. Now I know stories range from school to school and some teachers work long hours and don't have as many random days, but the fact remains that it is a relative gravy train for someone who's use is highly debatable in the first place. If some of these people want to stay in Korea, they will have to get TOEFL's (not online) and get hagwon jobs or else get relevant qualifications to teach (which you CAN do in Korea if you wish). These jobs are still readily available, but more and more you will actually have to show some ability or qualification to do the job. The simple truth is that if you don't know what a verb is you aren't qualified to teach anything but Phonetics to a pre-schooler.

Second, there's the turnover rate among NET's meaning that of the 550 that are staying in Seoul would be close to the number that would be renewing anyway. It also brings the number in line with other major Korea cities. For example (these number have not been fact checked so feel free to do so if they're way off) Daegu has about 300 NET's with a population of around 3 million. Busan has about 350 with a population of around 4.5 million. Seoul City (minus Incheon, Suwon etc.) has a population of around 10 million. In that sense 550 seems a reasonable number, especially if some will work in more than one school as has been suggested.

Also, hiring some 23 year old with a Criminology degree to teach English at a public school is... well dumb. For hagwon's I'd argue that a BA and a TEOFL/TEFL/CELTA is probably enough, but public school teaching is different, or at least it should be. Could you imagine what would happen in the US, Canada, Ireland etc. if the government decided everyone had to learn French and proceeded to hire a bunch of 23-35 year olds with no relevant education just because they happened to be from France, Quebec or West Africa? Now I am a big believer in the idea that a native speaker is essential when learning another language. Many Korean english teachers still say stuff like "You are from Canada, how about there?" However, 1200+ in Seoul alone seems excessive.

I also think many esl teachers have done this to themselves. I can't tell you how many times I've heard Koreans complain about their native teacher. Stories ranging from "he comes in hung over and stinking of booze every day" to "we called her at two and she had gone home with some random GI after being out til six on a Wednesday and was in some hotel across town." You have been hired to do a job. If you want to backpack Asia, boozing and getting up at noon, do that. Don't take a job and show up and act like an idiot and then get upset when you don't keep your desireable, well financed job. Also, the arguement that Koreans do it too doesn't fly as if a Korean shows up late with a story like that then they will be fired immediately and although coming in hungover is acceptable sometimes (much moreso than in the west), stinking of booze and talking about "how shittered" you got last night isn't and you don't hear the Koreans doing that. I know this isn't everybody that comes over, and I know many 23 year olds show up and do a great job but there are simply too many who treat their year(s) here as a holiday. Perhaps a measure that will weed out the idiots and get people who actually want to do the job they were hired to do (which includes MANY that are here now) isn't a bad thing at all.

This has happened before in the esl industry. In the 70's Japan was the place to go. You a functioning alcoholic with some education? Come live in Tokyo and be a teacher! Then the Japanese stopped and did some evaluations. The fact is that jobs in Japanese public schools are still readily available, but most people in them have a BA and an education degree, or an MA, or at least an English major. They also can lose their jobs if they under-perform as they have to pay their own way over and only get reinbursed if they finish their contract successfully. While I think Japan has gone too far the other way (it has been said that Japan speaks to the world through translators) certainly places like Singapore or Hong Kong seem to have found a happy balance. Teaching at a Hong Kong private school involves a real interview, and only people with education degrees or MA's in linguistics, education, TOEFL etc. are usually interviewed.

At the end of the day, very few people will notice the difference. EPIK may follow suit and drop some people, the economy isn't what it used to be, but I do think that hagwon work will fill the void. The real losers in that situation are the kids who can't afford private lessons at academies, although I don't know how much 2 hours a week saying "hello, where are you from?" with a westerner is going to teach them, at least it's something. I also think that Korea will (or should) follow the Hong Kong example. A smaller number of qualified teachers making a decent salary rather than cheap (relative to what HK teachers make) white people hired by the dozen. As to people in Korea now, many universities offer course based MA's in TOEFL, linguistics or even Asian studies (at least you'll be writing papers and studying a second language) in English. Do one. It's usually a year to 18 months (24-36 part time) and when you are finished you will have real qualifications. Most MA's here transfer to your own country either as an MA or as course credit towards one. Otherwise education degrees take a year in most western countries.

Finally, it wasn't that long ago that my fictional 23 year old with a Criminology degree could get a job teaching English at a UNIVERSITY. I mean, in Canada you can't even be a TA at a uni unless you are an MA student. Imagine signing up at your university for a French class and having a teacher with a Criminology degree walk in and not know the answer to your simple grammar questions... I'd want a refund. Well now that is increasingly rare in Korea and no one seems to be surprised, although it wasn't that long ago that the same objections were raised about weeding out Uni profs with no relevant experience, saying that it would raise the cost of English education in post secondary institutions. I think public schools are following suit.

So what it comes down to is this: you have a BA and maybe a TOEFL. You will be working hagwons.
You have an MA, and education degree or some other relevant qualifications. You can work public schools.

OR-

Next month some new policy will take effect with the government and everything I have just written will be irrelevant.

Wednesday, December 7, 2011

working on a Saturday

well in my contract it says that I must work 3 Saturdays in a year.... not bad at all and I can't really complain as it's 1030-1 and it's watching my students give presentations. It's a great way to gauge how well they are doing and it's over early.

What I was a little annoyed about is that we only found out on Wednesday, and then through our coteacher who asked if we were going to the lunch after the presentation. What presentation? What lunch? Our boss insisted that she had told us but as all three of us had no idea my guess is that she had talked about presentations (which we actually thought was for their public school) and assumed we just knew the rest. I was supposed to go to a wedding for my old coworker Sally but I'm not sure I'll be making that now, which is also frustrating as I said I'd be there. I'll probably just bolt after the reception and see what I can do.

Being how good the school has been so far and that this is the first real issue I've had I've just decided to let it go. My boss is great and I think with the new semester starting Dec 2nd my guess is it just slipped her mind. What can you do right?

Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Korean Unification in the 21st Century

My friend Jason posted a great link from the BBC on the new Korean online channel dedicated to reunification. The network has been started as a response to the sheer number of young people who seem to simply not care about the north anymore. It argues that while the first two generations of the post-1953 division had real family links, the younger generation (say under 30) has virtually none that it knows about. It's an interesting situation and the BBC does a decent job of describing the channel. Officially there is one Korea, as both sides claim ownership of the whole nation. In Korea maps show one nation and no one uses the term "South Korea." Unofficially however, Koreans know that there is in effect two states and for younger people, the north seems a largely irrelevant issue.

I know in my own experiences talking with Korean friends it does seem like a distant issue. People whos great grandmothers were in Seoul and who's great uncles were in Kaesong (just across the border) were ripped apart during the war and never allowed to see each other again. I have one example of a friend whos grandmother and great aunt were on a shopping trip to Seoul (the family was from just outside of Pyeongyang). They went down for a week long summer vacation when the north invaded. While every detail wasn't shared with me, what happened was after the war they were in Daegu and although you had, in theory, 90 days to choose which side of the border to live on in reality you didn't. So after 90 days the border was shut and the girls never saw their older brother or parents again and have never even been able to find out what happened to them. That is just one of thousands of heartbreaking stories that come out of that generation. For people who lived through that time one can understand how reunification was seen as so important.

However, for their grandchildren they have, at most, aunts, uncles and cousins up in the north at this point, and most have less than that. They have also never met these relatives. I know I have cousins who I have never really met and who I might have trouble naming. For many of these people it's the same thing. The north is an annoyance and reunification a secondary problem. Since reunification will almost certainly occur as the north crumbles and is absorbed by the south it will be a major economic blow to the south (some estimates say it will cost $100 billion US to the south's economy). In a nation with an excess of university students and record high prices for food and housing (relative to the country, no Canadian would complain about what $600/m would get you here apartment wise) it's a borderline unwelcome blow that one friend says she hopes will happen when she is in her 50's and economically stable. Most young south Koreans are caught in a culture and generational gap where they are still expected to care for their parents financially and pay for their childrens education and housing through to their marriage and do this in a society that is rapidly westernizing and where this expectation is no longer a realistic one. The kids are obsessed with education and smart phones and the 20 and 30 somethings are adjusting to this cultural shift as best they can. With these circumstances you can understand why the north just isn't the issue it once was among anyone under 40.

Also there's the fact that for young Koreans, American movies and music, Japanese animation and European food have a far greater impact on their culture and daily lives than the north. While everyone seems to agree that unification should happen, the simple fact is that more Koreans visit the US, Japan, Taiwan and a host of SE Asian nations with far greater frequency than they do the north. In fact, I would argue that a young couple living in Gangnam, Seoul has far more in common with their counterparts in Los Angeles, Hong Kong or Tokyo than they do with their counterparts in Pyeongyang. Reunification would, at this point, bring two very alien groups together. Yes they have a common language and a shared history going back 1500 years that can not be easily dismissed, but the last 60 years have created two different realities. I mean, north Koreans don't even know what Starcraft is!

However, I'm glad that some people in the Korean government are still paying attention and want the new generation engaged, because whether it's a military coup, civilian food riots, a war or something else the north will collapse, and probably in my lifetime. Whether or not the two Koreas ever reunite is still unknown, but no matter what happens the south will bare the brunt of it and younger people need to be ready for that.

Friday, December 2, 2011

eating 족발

so after work on Friday I ran down to homeplus to grab a few essentials (tp and makkeoli) and then went for a long walk up to the base of Apsan where I often walk after work. It's about 30-40 minutes each way (depending on my pace/how far up I go) and a great walk at night. On my way back I stopped off at a few vendors to pick up some veggies and some meat. Well an old guy was selling an undisclosed meat that smelled great and was down to 7000 won from the usual 10,000 (so about $6.50 down from $9.50) so I bought it, took it home and tried some. It was chewy, really chewy.... almost rubbery. It tasted like pork I used to get in Hong Kong and it's about the most delicious thing I ate while there so I began eating it up.

It was Chokbal.

Now Korean in one of those languages where every word has more than one meaning and there is more than one word for everything, due to the influx of Chinese words in classical times, so for example "배" can mean boat, stomach, pear or behind depending on context and the hanja. Therefore I ignored the "발" as it must have more meanings than "foot".

Well it still might but I'll have to look it up later. I had picked up a piece of meat which was unmistakably a pig's hoof (Koreans don't have the same need to hide what their meat is through selective cutting, and they eat all of it). In fact, "족" is the Chinese work for foot, so the dish translates as foot foot. In fact the full name of this dish was : 서울왕족발 or Seoul King foot foot.

Ack, ewwww. Pigs feet! That's gross, that's awful that's....... well really quite delicious and actually very healthy. While I had never planned to eat pigs feet they are actually really good and I'm glad I accidentally did. While it isn't quite fried spider or silk worm larvae on the list of weird stuff I've eaten it's a fun story.

Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Samsung Lions are Asia Series Champions

Last night Daegu's Samsung Lions became the first Korean team (indeed first non-Japanese team) to win the Asia Series and take the title of Asian Champions. It was a close game, played against Fukuoka's Softbank Hawks (the Japanese Champions) who actually had a better record in the round robin section and so were playing with homefield advantage (the games being played in Taiwan). Fukuoka were heavy favourites but were unable to generate any real offense against Samsung and hit into two rally crushing double plays, which would be decisive.

Fukuoka actually went up 1-0 in the first off of three hits before hitting in to a double play. In the fifth Samsung racked up five runs off two great singles followed by a three run homer, a wild pitch with a man on third and some questionable defense by Fukuoka leading to the games only error. The five runs would be enough to win it, although Fukuoka would come close in the 8th loading the bases with no outs before hitting in to another double play. The inning ended with the score 5-3, which would also end up being the final score.

It's great to see the local team do so well, especially as it's rare for Daegu to take in a major sporting event/title over wealthier Seoul/Incheon based teams in the modern era. For Daegu to be the Korean and Asian Champions is a huge boost for the city and the people living here. It's also great for the development of baseball in Asia to see a non-Japanese team win the title. While Fukuoka had a better record in the round robin (they beat Samsung 9-0 in that game) and I think it'll be a few years yet before baseball in Korea or Taiwan matches the professionalism and skill of Nippon Professional Baseball (I wonder if Samsung could have won a best of seven series with Fukuoka?) it's great to see the expansion of the game and the growth of skilled players in such a short period of time (pro baseball in Korea only started in 1982, versus 1926 in Japan). In any event, with the winter sports here being soccer and basketball (yawn) I'm already ready for next April.

Thursday, November 24, 2011

난 바빠 very 바빠

as the line from the newest kpop hit suggests, I've been incredibly busy this week.

To start with work is throwing extra classes my way and giving me 1 one 1's for the kids to practice for their English presentations that every elementary school does wth their grade 6's. So even though I only have a 7 hour shift these days, a break is almost unheard of. Next months schedule will also keep me busy, as I'm getting three more classes. Guess it's a good way to pass the cold december.

I've also been out virtually every night this week, and whil eit's been mostly fun/social things, I've yet to have a night to just relax at home and with Bobby coming to town and staying with me this Friday I'm in for a busy (but very fun) weekend.

No wonder November just flew by......

Sunday, November 20, 2011

a weekend in Seoul

Well it was a weekend of near misses and mistakes that somehow turned in to really good luck. It sounds strange but it's true. Makes for a few more ups and downs than I'd like on a weekend trip, but it all worked out.

It started Friday. At work we had a workshop where we listened to a presentation and then each of us gave a 20 minute presentation. I had been nervous during the week but when we actually did it I had a lot of fun. I opted to go first and I think I did well. I then got to play the part of students for Mike and Kris  and I had a little too much fun doing that. The best part was that we were off by six.

I got to Seoul around midnight and opted for a cheap hotel near the station. When the guy said 40,000 I was happy, as in Daegu that gets you a decent room..... not in Seoul. The next day I went to meet a friend of mine from Taiwan, Serena (my friend from Taiwan) and her friend Carol (also Taiwanese) for coffee. It was really great to meet a few new people and I found a place in Seoul that does 500 won (45 cent) Americano refills.... a bit dangerous. After a few hours I left and went back to Insadong, got a much better hotel and did some shopping and eating. I was hoping to meet up with Bobby on Saturday night but a busy day combined with virtually no sleep had me tired so I suggested to Bobby that we meet on Sunday and he was okay with that.

The next morning I visited Jenny, Kwang ho, her sister Jin Baek and Jenny jr. and at the Korea National Museum. They were two very good friends of mine when I first came to Ulsan way back in 2008. She was my head teacher and I became friends with her husband very quickly, despite the lack of language skills (she will often do interpretations for me. In fact, I've known them for so long that she is maybe the only Korean outside of work that I will call by her English name (many Koreans take English names during their language classes in school and at work we are all supposed to use the kids English names, but outside of that environment it seems a bit silly. I admit that I usually have to ask a Korean name a few times, but I usually feel that you can't build a relationship with someone if you can't even be bothered to learn their name, unless they specifically say to use the English name, which a few do. However, in your first few weeks it's a bit of culture shock and you just use whatever name they give you to use, thus I'll call her Jenny even though I should call her Hyun sim... but I digress). Anyway, they came with their baby, who last time I saw was barely moving and is now running around and talking. She's a cool kid and seemed totally unafraid of me (which is unusual in that age range, but maybe it's just cause they live in Seoul where there are so many more waegookin). The museum itself was great and holds so many pieces of Korean history. Kwang ho is also very knowledgeable about Korean history and culture and I learned a lot.

However, I had not booked a KTX ticket back which never used to be a problem, but I guess more people are travelling and I was very worried that I wouldn't be able to get a train back, as they were all sold out online. I began to think about a bus back but then I was worried that I'd miss Bobby altogether, which would have been a real shame. I went to Seoul Station and did manage to get a ticket back. 1040 KTX to Daejeon, transfer to slow train. 90 minutes to Daegu station getting in around 130. Perfect, off to Yeonshinnae (in northwestern Seoul) to see Bobby.

Bobby was having dinner with a coworker and friend named Megan so we all went out to a gogi jip for meat and makkeoli. We hung out a few hours, found a decent makkeoli place near his house and caught up. Although it turns out that he'll be back in Daegu this coming weekend and will probably be staying at my place, so I guess we'll have lots of time to catch up then as well :P


As a city I find I like Seoul, but I'm glad I dont live there as it's just so congested (who'd have thought 15 million people in one place would seem congested?) and I find the people, well much more rude a lot of the time. As an example I had a cabbie who couldn't understand my directions to Korean National Museum (even though I had it in Hangeul and the directions drawn out) and when he started going the wrong way I asked what was up and he got really upset, like angry. I just got out and walked away as he was carrying on. Never had that in Daegu or Ulsan, ever.

But there's also stuff that I love. When I was at a table with five people who's different native languages are English, Korean and Chinese and who were all speaking in more than one language (even me) no one cared. In Daegu you start speaking anything but Korean and people stare at you, but in Seoul the white guy is speaking a bit of Korean and the Chinese girl is speaking some Korean and the Koreans and Chinese are both speaking lots of English and no one cares. The diversity with stuff like food is also amazing. Indian, Thai, Italian, German, Chinese and all right there.

In fact, I'd argue that Seoul feels so different from Busan or Daegu or Ulsan that it's like going to a different country. Those are all big Korean cities but Seoul is truly a world city. In many ways Seoul is its own city state much like Singapore to malaysia, only without the obvious border. It is its own entity with different politics, culture and even society than the rest of Korea. I'm sure the Japanese feel that way towards Tokyo or the British towards London but it's a wierd thing that I think can only exist in countries that have so called "world cities". Whatever the reason it's a cool place to visit, but I must admit to being happy to be back in Sangin :P

Sunday, November 13, 2011

Korea receives two destinctions that are actually meaningful

I often hear about how Korea's XYZ has been designated as the best ABC by a company or organization that no one has ever heard of. So when Koreans began talking about the whole host of awards for Korea this year I rolled my eyes and kept quiet. However, two that were given to the Republic of Korea (South Korea) this year are actually kinda cool and meaningful, so being as it was a slow weekend before payday I thought I'd share them instead

Incheon International Airport came third in both the Asian and World best airport award. However, being that the top three in Asia are also the top three in the world, it really does mean something. Finishing just behind 2nd place Changi International Airport in Singapore and 1st place Hong Kong International and ahead of Munich (global) and Beijing (Asian) it makes Korea a real hub of global transport. Singapore airlines already has its NE Asian base there as does Delta from the states. While it is mostly a pride thing for the employees of Incheon International, it will bring more conferences, layover tourists and investment to Korea. Having flown out of all of the top three I can see why Hong Kong came in first (and it does almost every year, except in 2009 when it came in second to Incheon). It is an amazing airport, easy to get around, well staffed. I'd vote it best airport I've ever been to as well. Changi is a place I've only flown out of, so I can't say as much about it. I was very impressive though and I can see why it did so well. Incheon is great, well organized and totally idiot-proof. The winners were decided upon after Skytrax (who monitor airport safety, comfort, reliability etc.) surveyed over 11 million air travellers in 2011. I think that's also important, as it's people who use these airports who are saying which ones are best, not some sort of industry "experts" or administrators.

As a final note, no North American airport was even in the top ten. Zurich, Amsterdam, Copenhagen, Kuala Lumpur and Auckland rounded out the top ten. However, having flown in and out of a few major airports in the US and Canada I was suprised that Vancouver International or even Seatac in Seattle didn't do better. The only explanation I can think of is the treatment people receive while there. While part of it is based on reliability (no lost luggage etc.) part of it must also be based on experiences with customs. All I'll say is in all the times I've travelled to the US and Canada I've had ONE friendly customs agent. In Singapore, a country famous for rigid laws and law enforcement, my customs agent was recommending tourist spots and informing me of Singaporean laws in a matter of fact way. I'll never forget it (this all happened while our buses luggage was being checked over, I had my own agent because I was the only one there who didn't speak Bahasa Malayu... this was at the land crossing from Malaysia in to Singapore):

Singaporean Customs agent: "ummm, sooooooo do you have any illegal drugs?"
me: "nope"
SCA: "do you have any chewing gum?"
me: "I put it in that bin over there where it says to put anything that is illegal in Singapore."
SCA: (smiles) "yes exactly, that's what you were supposed to do. After this point chewing gum will bring you a massive fine and drug smuggling will bring the death sentence, we like to let everyone know"
me: "no problem" (smiles)
SCA: "great, well your bags are good, your customs form says that you will be staying in the colonial district?"
me: "yes"
SCA: "oh! Then you must try........." (he then proceedes to recommend two restaurants, a parade happening that Saturday night and a ferry tour of the river, including directions and how much it would cost).

I'm not saying that Canadian and US customs agents shouldn't be diligent, in fact I appreciate that they are, I just fail to see why they have to be such dicks about it. For too many people their first experience of Canada is an angry person demanding answers of them and treating them like a potential criminal. I'd hate a place after being treated like that too. I wonder if it's a lack of that sort of an experience that helps Changi, Incheon and HKI get such high ratings?



The second is more of a classification change. Jejudo (the entire island) was named as a UNESCO designated bio reserve. While this is meaningless in many ways (it's only protected if the country agrees not to touch it) in Korea it does guarantee a measure of protection as Korea is trying to rebrand itself as a green Asian destination and as an Asian tourist destination. While ads like this one that I mentioned earlier won't help at all, having a subtropical island in the east China sea that is a large bio preserve and far more accessable than the islands off the coast of China, and far cheaper than Okinawa, could actually actually boost tourism IF Korea promotes this in an intelligent way (can't emphasize that IF enough) regionally and even further afield. It also means that no major industrial development will take place on the island. The Korean Navy had planned a massive extension of their Jeju base and this had met from protests on Jeju will now probably be put on hold. I'm always happy to see any land protected from strip mining and industrialization and to have a 40x70 km Volcanic island now off limits is great. It's also maybe the most beautiful place I have ever been to in Korea and even in Asia (top 3 for sure) so to have it safe for future generations is a real win.


Well off to start the day....

Thursday, November 10, 2011

Pepero Day 11.11.11

Well it's an extra special Pepero Day here in Korea. Not a normal 11.11 but an 11.11.11 (I bet that means even more Pepero). I did a summary of last years Pepero Day and very little has changed. But I think the day after 수능 maybe we all need a little candy.

I know for some people the fact that it's 11.11.11 bring extra significance to this day, but they are people with no understanding of the development of the modern calendar or how arbitrary it is (sorry to sound cynical, but if we were still on the Caesarian calendar this day was 3 weeks ago. On the Muslim calendar it won't happy for 600 years and on the Buddhist one it happened 500 years ago, and all those dates place an assumption on a major event on those days and assume that we got the dates right, all of which is debatable to say the least).

So for everyone in Korea, enjoy a Merry Pepero Day :P

November 10th, the day your whole life is decided.

and it's true if you are a Korean grade 12 student writing the CSAT, or College Scolastic Ability Test. Also known as the Suneung (수능) it's THE test that determines what school you get in to and so, by extension, your entie future. You can read all about it here. It's impossible to explain to someone not here what it's like. All government workers go to work an hour late so as to not clog up the roads and subways for the kids. Construction work is barred so the noise will not bother the kids. Police escort students running late to the test and, believe it or not, most airports are shut down so as to cut down on noise pollution. Of course Incheon is still open (and I think Gimhae would be as well) but no other planes, private, commercial or military, can be used before 4pm.

Well needless to say this is a big deal. Kids begin preparing for this as early as grade one or two. It really does consume their childhood. From anywhere from grade 1-3 you will begin going to a host of after school and Saturday academies (hagwon's) to study Math, Science, Korean and English (the four mandatory subjects) and later a choice of history, literature, a specific science, hanja (Chinese characters in Korean) etc etc etc. This runs through elementary and middle school (grades 1-9) before they enter high school. By grade 11 and 12 most students are up at 6 or 7 am to go to school, which runs until 9pm. They then go to study halls to cram until around midnight when they finally go home/to sleep. Averaging 4-5 hours a night of sleep they do this for two years before they write their big test, which is all over in 6 hours.

For the student who aces the test, a bright future at Seoul National, Korea National or Yonsei University followed by a top position at LG, Samsung, major banks etc. begins. For students who fail, they can accept their losses or spend a year 13 repeating their year 12 and cramming like they have never crammed before to write it again. This usually entails another year like the one they just did in grade 12. For anyone in between, it's a degree from a lesser University, which may still be a good school, (Kyungpook University in Daegu for example, is considered a top school) but it probably promises middle management at the afore mentioned companies or high management in a smaller company. For graduates of even lesser universities small, less formal employment with less secure pensions and no real chance to get to the top awaits them. They too can do the 13th year (in fact any student can) but if you do well enough just to get in most students accept it and begin to plan their life accordingly.

It's hard to say much that I see as positive about this system. The best I can come up with as many teen social problems that are prevalent in the west such as teen pregnancy, alcoholism and drug use are virtually unknown here. In fact sex-ed isn't taught. It simply isn't needed before University (where it is taught). I mean, with that sort of a schedule I'd be too tired for sex and drinking too. While that sounds like a positive I hardly think it's worth it. Korea has the highest suicide rate in the OECD, second in the world and the second highest among people under the age of 20 (Japan having the highest in that demographic). Students get virtually no time to play, which is a serious factor in developing personality. There's also the minimal second chance factor. I know that if my future had been sealed when I was 16 or 18 I'd have been in a LOT of trouble, and I think many people from the west would feel the same way. You get a year of cram school if you fail the test, but that's the extent of the "second chance". Malnutrition is also prevalent with 33% of High Schools girls registering as anemic in at least one major Korean city. I mean if you are at school that long when do you eat a real meal (ddok bokki and ramen don't count).

Well either way, I was especially nice to my students today.

Sunday, November 6, 2011

Hiking with Geoff

As I've talked about before, one of my favourite things to do in Korea in hiking. There are so many great mountains and the fact is that when you get out of the cities, Korea can actually be a very beautiful place. This time of year, with the tree leaves changing you can imagine a whole Asian mountain range that is a mix of green, brown and red. Stunning. With this in mind I set out Saturday morning with Geoff for a 10km hike near my place. It wasn't all that strenuous, unlike the grind I did at Geumosan, and allowed me to get some excercise, chat with a friend and enjoy the changing of the seasons. The unusual warm spell we've had also made it a shorts and t-shirt hike. sweet.

Afterwards we came out in this little farming community. Walking by rice terraces and in to a small town with some nice restaurants. We opted for a beer and a gimbap triangle at the convenience store, sat out on the patio and enjoyed our first beer in the mountains since Taroko in Taiwan. The best part about this store is that it's only about a 30-40 minute walk from my place, so I can make it a regular hangout.

After that we headed to a mart run by a Korean family that Geoff befriended when he lived in Sangin. The son is a friend of Geoff's and the parents offered us dinner. They were very generous with both teh food and the makkeoli and it was great to be involved in this little Korean family's life. Amazing how similar it is to western family life really (except we all sit on the floor).

Sunday was my day to do grocery shopping and relax. I have (stupidly) started a new traviana ccount so I played that a bit and read, watched a movie etc.

Now it's time for the work week grind........ d'oh

Thursday, November 3, 2011

Samsung Lions win Korea Series, Asia Series to start November 25th

Well first off a bit late on this one. The Samsung Lions (Daegu's baseball team) beat the SK Wyverns (Incheon's baseball team) on October 31st to win the Korea Series 3-1. It was a rematch of last year when SK won and swept the series, so it's good to see the local boys win such a big event and get even. It's Daegu's fifth Championship and fourth in the last 10 years. The only other team with more championships in Gwangju based KIA Tigers. The tournament itself isn't that only (it began in 1982) but it's a decent quality game. Well done boys.

Next up is the Asia Series in which the championship teams from Japan, Korea and Taiwan compete. The Chinese have also sent various teams but this year Australia will send it's championship team (from Perth) to play instead of the Chinese team (I actually had no idea that China or Australia even had professional baseball). It's a relatively new tournament where the Japanese teams have won every year and the Korean or Taiwanese teams have been the runners up (not surprising really). Japan has also hosted every previous series as well but this year, with the tournament starting so late (November 25th), they have opted to have it played in Taiwan. I will of course be all about the Samsung Lions (and not the 7-11 Lions representing Tainan :P) The Perth Heat will also play, along with whatever Japanese team wins the Japan Series (currently being played).

Tuesday, November 1, 2011

How to make North Korea seem scarier than it is

Read this CNN article

This happens a lot here in Korea, though oddly enough not with Korean media, but with western media. It makes North Korea out to be a scary monster that could snap at any time. Be afraid, be very afraid. Except don't be.

Not that our wacky neighbours to the north don't do crazy things. They made a big boom in 2008 that we assumed to be a nuclear weapon (it probably is, but it's never actually been verified), they sunk the Cheonan, a Republic of Korea vessel in 2010 and later that year shelled the island of Yeonpyeon-do (misspelled in the CNN article). They can be belligerent, demanding and confrontational. But are they really THAT big an issue? Are they USSR east? Reading this article you'd think so.

However, the main point is that "Next year, I believe that the possibility of North Korea conducting additional provocations is ... very high."  That's right, they MIGHT. In the same way that, say, Klingons in a Death Star might land on earth. Next year is the 100th birthday of Kim Il-Sung. Kim Jong-il's father and founder of the Democratic People's Republic of Korea (DPRK, North Korea). It's also been suggested that an ageing Kim jr. might pass the reigns on to his son Kim Jong-Un. Suggested because of course no one knows for sure. What we do get in re hashed scare tactics like this one:

"North Korea continues to defy the international community as it enhances its nuclear weapons, its ballistic missile programs and continues to engage in dangerous and destabilizing proliferation activities."

In 2007 they tested two medium range missiles, that failed, and stopped when asked to do so by the Chinese. Again, not a friendly gesture, but when the then president of the most powerful state on earth puts you third on his hit list then attacks and lynches the guy he named as number one it is understandable. Besides, isn't the US demanding that other nations not have weapons like listening to Donald Trump talk about how the high minimum wage is killing business? Finally, this was FIVE years ago. Not an eternity I grant but still.

"Denuclearization means they have to stop testing, they have to stop developing weapons, they have to stop enriching in violation of international rules and requirements, and they have to allow the IAEA [International Atomic Energy Agency] to go in and inspect those facilities."

-except for the IAEA part they've already done this.

"Even as the nuclear issue continues to simmer, a new threat is emerging -- cyber security.
The threat can't be ignored, Panetta said."

-This is my favourite. I mean, North Korea has never actually done this. They don't even have the internet there let alone computer experts to match those in the US, South Korea or Japan, but let's assume that they might. While we're at it, let's assume that they will put bombs on hanggliders and glide them to Seoul. I mean they never have, but it's a threat that can't be ignored.......  in much the same way that Klingons on a Death Star is a potential threat that can't be ignored.




Here's a few other re-hashed "facts" about North Korea that you will hear used again and again:

North Korea spend 1/4 of it's budget on its military

- so a quarter of what? $3.75? This IS true, but it's so meaningless as to be comical. Here a list of countries and their military budgets. Look at number one. YIKES! But look at number 13 South Korea at 26 billion dollars a year (add to that the insane amount spent by number one USA). While North Korea doesn't report it's estimated spending, experts in the US have calculated it at roughly 26%. That is 26% of approximately 40 billion US dollars, or about 10 billion, putting it on par with Greece or Poland. That's right. 3% of South Korean spending equals 2.5x the 26% North Korea spends. Add to that the age of the weapons the North has (I think you can still see a faded CCCP on the sides of those missiles :P). Now of course 10 billion is still a LOT, and they could cause a lot of trouble before they were wiped out, but do the math, they would be wiped out. It would be a 3 week suicide attack.

China will support the north, China is the problem..... but not really.

According to the Korea Times 60,000 Chinese study in Korea. Now that is not just 60,000 but 60,000 of the wealthiest, most connected Chinese. Rural Chinese have no chance of affording an education in China, much less Korea. That 60,000 come from wealthier Beijing or Shanghainese families. While the article states that many are unhappy in Korea (not the point I want to make, it's just the most reliable article with real numbers that Icould find) the fact remains that 60,000 are here. Do you think China will allow North Korea to wipe out 60,000 sons and daughters of businessmen, party officials, military officers or medium sized investors? Add to that the fact that South Korea and China rank 3rd as trading partners respectively (both behind the US and Japan) and you start to wonder exactly why China would want to see the north attack South Korea and possibly Japan and dragging the US in to yet another money wasting foreign crusade. In fact it may just be that China would work very hard NOT too see it's three biggest trading partners weakened or destroyed and 60,000 of it's future leaders killed.


So why is North Korea made out to be the destroyer of civilization?


Well they ARE an issue in Korea and NE Asia and they are a bit of a wildcard, but that's about it. Reunification will set the South back 30 years and most Koreans I have asked about this, while agreeing that unification is best, don't want it until they are 40 or 50 and so financially stable enough to support the blow that will come financially.

Otherwise I think a CNN headline like "North Korea is Somewhat Irritating" or "Everything's Fine" will not get people watching or browsing their website. So rehashing scare stories and omitting relevant facts to make better news is what is done. No one is lying, but not all the facts are reported.

That multi-trillion dollar US defense budget is now a part of the economy creating jobs and wealth that is reinvested in the political parties that run the show. The fact that the US could cut it's budget in half and still spend more than the next four powers COMBINED shows how overblown that budget is. I guess justifying a 7.6 trillion dollar budget to counter a 10 billion dollar budget must be justified somehow. Especially when so much of the US and the world at large could use that money for so many better things. Half that budget would end poverty in Africa, homelessness in America, fund education for every US citizen through a bachelors degree. Create a retirement pension for every US citizen. It could end hunger around the globe and have the entire world in love with America again instead of loathing it.

But no time for that trivial stuff, North Korea is set to up it's military budget to 30% in 2012.

Changing of the guard.

well yesterday was the first day where 'Danny teacher' was out and 'Michael teacher' was in. We celebrated Monday night with a trip out to a Korean BBQ restaurant for some food and drinks. Danny then went downtown to celebrate freedom while us working stiffs grabbed a quick WaBar pint and headed home. I only worked with Danny for 3 months, which is a shame as he was a really decent guy and I'd have liked to have gotten to know him better. He's in town for the next two weeks touring with his sister who's flown out to visit so I may see him again before he takes off. While I'm sad to see him off, Mike seems like a great guy and it is nice to have all the western coworkers being roughly the same age (28-31).

The week itself is setting up to be a low key event. The weather now has me running my heater regularly, though we have not yet hit the depths of winter and daytime temperatures are still quite nice (another month before there's ice on the windshield). I'll be meeting Geoff for dinner tonight then again on Saturday for a hike. I'm also in the process of cleaning up my apartment. Not that it's THAT bad, it really just needs to be organised.

Sunday, October 30, 2011

No Halloween party this year

I was saddened when, lats week, the school decided not to have a big halloween party. I had pitched the idea about a month ago and my western co-workers had interest ranging from wanting to start that minute to being interested and willing to pitch in. At my old school, I had  two great Halloween parties and I was really hoping for a third. Alas this school is more course driven and I will instead be giving lectures and monthly tests. To be honest, I wasn't THAT upset about it, but it would have been nice to have a fun Monday with the kids, rather than lessons and tests. Oh well........

In general this Halloween was a quieter one. Fireworks on Saturday and Firefly on Sunday made up my weekend. I know many an expat will be staggering in to work today only half alive, and maybe it's just that I'm getting older (definitely) but I just can't be counted among them anymore. There's no better feeling than waking up fresh.

Friday, October 28, 2011

St. Louis wins it all

Well that's maybe the way this season should have ended. The last team anyone expected to win wins. St. Louis defeated the Texas Rangers 6-2 to win their eleventh World Series title. It was by no means a pretty series, with frequent bullpen errors, questionable strike zones and a blowout game. However St. Louis pulled out the four wins and they should be congratulated for it.

I have to admit though that I was cheering for Texas. Not that I'm a big Rangers fan, but they have a solid lineup of guys who put in a good season. They also lost in last years World Series to the San Francisco Giants, and so once they made it I was hoping for a better finish. As an organization they have also never won a World Series title, whereas St. Louis has previously won 10. I'm always happy to see underdog teams do well and Texas did it for 7 months and earned the right to be there (that shot at the Cards backdoor entrance to the playoffs should not be considered subtle). That being said they were the best team in October, and that's when it really counts. In fact, if you look at the last 10 years St. Louis might be the most consistent October team. Despite rarely being the best they have made it to the World Series three times. No other team has done that this decade (though make it 15 years and the Yankees have been in seven times, that late 90's team was insanely good), winning it twice in 2006 and 2011 and losing in 2004 to Boston.

See:

2002 - L.A Angels                  def.      San Francisco Giants
2003 - Florida Marlins            def.      N.Y Yankees (I have trouble reading that too)
2004 - Boston Red Sox           def.      St. Louis Cardinals
2005 - Chicago White Sox      def.      Houston Astros
2006 - St. Louis Cardinals       def.      Detroit White Sox
2007 - Boston Red Sox           def.      Colorado Rockies
2008 - Philadelphia Phillies       def.      Tampa Bay Rays
2009 - New York Yankees     def.      Philadelphia Phillies
2010 - San Francisco Giants    def.      Texas Rangers
2011 - St. Louis Cardinals       def.      Texas Rangers

So anyway, a season of upsets and big team collapses ends with a team that won a wildcard spot on the last day of the season due to another team losing wins it all. I'm already excited for April.


In the Korea Series, currently in play. My hometown Samsung Lions, who won the regular season championship are on course to win the Korea Series over Incheon based defending Champion SK Wyverns. Samsung is up 2-0 in the Series and SK have managed just one run in two games, though the Lions have managed only four. Looking forward to the weekend games.


Finally, congratulations to the New Zealand All-Blacks for winning the 2011 Rugby World Cup in Auckland. Their first win in 24 years despite regularly being the best team in the world. They beat France 8-7.

Tuesday, October 25, 2011

HEEEEEEEEERE'S Winter

Well it's October 25th and it's 7 degrees and looking to go down to near freezing tonight. I know that to many people that is not winter, but to me and my Californian and Australian co-workers it's cold. It didn't help that I didn't dress well for it, but for the first time this year my heat is on and my sweaters are out. It also doesn't help that just 4 weeks ago it was 28 degrees and sunny and just last week our overnight lows were still hovering around 15 degrees. It's just a reminder of how quickly things can turn weather-wise in NE Asia.

I'm now off to look at flights south for my winter break^^

Sunday, October 23, 2011

isteacher is one year old

Well it's been a year since I started to document my life here in a blog. After a year I can say I'm fairly happy with it. I seem to have a small but steady group that read it but as I said in my very first post, it's as much for myself as for anyone else. A sort of journal of my life here that friends and family can share in. Though given that I don't advertise it on blogging sites, link it to any blogs unless I personally know the people writing them or advertise it at all I have a decent number of page hits.

My most popular blog was "Taiwan, Day 2" It is about Geoff and I going up to Maokong tea fields just south of Taipei for the day during our trip there last May. I'm not sure why this Taiwan one was so popular (the others aren't even in the top ten). After that a blog I did on the Japan earthquake, one I did on the changes to the monarchy and one on my job situation at SEI are on there. I average about 15-20 unique hits a blog though some are much higher and a few lower. I average between 13-16 posts a month on months when I am blogging (June and July this year saw a combined 3). The most popular topics are travelling and Korean current events while the least popular seem to be ones that start with 'a quiet weekend' ...... that really makes sense in most ways.

As to sources. Not surprisingly South Korea gives me the most page hits, followed by the US and Canada (they swap for 2nd and 3rd regularly). I imagine both of them encompass family and friends, though I think the US must give me a few unknowns. Fourth is Australia, which is probably because a few bloggers in Korea and China base their sites out of Australia. I also have a few friends who live there. Fifth is Malaysia. I'm not sure who reads it in Malaysia there but I'd love to know. Most viewers are linked through Facebook or google, which is really not surprising. I also notice that virtually all the people commenting do it on facebook.

Overall my biggest regret is that I didn't start this earlier. It's such a great way to keep in touch with people who live in other countries or on other continents or even people who live right near you. It keeps family and friends informed on what I am up to and hopefully gives information to people travelling and hanging out in Korea/Asia. Most important for me though, it documents a time in my life that is very unique and will never come again.

a good weekend

What a nice weekend in Daegu.

Saturday I woke up early. Like 800 early. I had planned to go to Haeinsa to see the tripitaka Koreana which is actually open to the public for the first time in 100 years. However Friday afternoon it started raining and it was still going on Saturday morning (I haven't had a stretch of rain like that since I left Vancouver!). So I opted to have a lazy morning. I loaded up a few new ringtones to my smartphone so now every time I get a message Roadhouse Blues starts up :)

In teh evening I opted for a trip to Mark's and then to Keimyung Makkeoli. I then headed back to Sangin and met my oworker Kris and our soon to be new coworker Mike for a beer. Mike seems like a really good guy. Wants to travel a bit and not too much of a boozer. He's been to Korea before but up in Ilsan (read Seoul) so Gyeongsan is new for him. Hope it works out.

Sunday I woke up and did my big Homeplus shop. I'm now loaded up for the rest of October at any rate.  It was a nice afternoon. With all the cash I sent home I think my next few weekends will be like this one, which is okay with me :)

Saturday, October 22, 2011

why don't you live in Seoul?

I get asked occasionally by friends why I live in Daegu instead of moving to Seoul. I mean, it's Seoul. The truth is that I like Daegu, I'm mostly happy here. I like Daegu's moderate size relative to Seoul. I know there would be real advantages to moving to Seoul, but I also think you lose something living up there. I can't speak much to living in Seoul, as I've only even been there as a tourist, but I know many people who love it. It seems to me that Seoul just has, well everything. Entertainment, food and drink and major transportation. Seoul is a very impressive city in many respects. The variety there is also unmatched in Korea. You can have Korean BBQ one night, Mexican food the next, Indian the next etc. You also have access to one of the largest airports in Asia and on a four day weekend you really can head off to China, Japan or Taiwan relatively easily. You could easily spend a year or two just exploring the neighbourhoods and surrounding cities (Ilsan, Suwon etc.) and I get why so many people rarely leave (in fact I have met both Koreans and expats who have lived there for years who have never left it). There's also a certain vibrancy about it. Many big cities have this. It's just the vibe of so many people in one place but it's very intoxicating. Certainly if I were going to raise a family in Korea I would want to do it in Seoul. The job and education opportunities are second to none anywhere in Asia. Overall, I do think Seoul is a very cool city.

That being said, as a major metropolis I've found it a bit of a let down compared to Hong Kong, Taipei or Singapore. It's a real business city. It's Korea Inc. The headquarters of LG, Samsung, Lotte and Hyundai are all there and its vast subway network moves 10 million people to where they need to go to every day to keep this massive export driven economy going. I mean, it's a very impressive city and I get why it is such a focal point of Korean life but it feels like a city that is designed to generate revenue. Hong Kong and Singapore are both major financial centres as well, but they have more..... well character. Certainly Insadong has a lot of touristy things but I find most suburbs just not that much different from suburbs in Daegu, Busan or Ulsan. Also, Seoul is such a modern city that I think you lose out on certain aspects of Korean life that you would get somewhere like Daegu (and even moreso somewhere like Gyeongju, Andong or Jinju). Finally, I would worry that Seoul would eat my savings much faster than Daegu or Ulsan do.

Because of that, I find Seoul an awesome place to visit. It's a real treat to see and hang out in. However, I find Daegu has *most* of what I'd want in Seoul but it costs less. Maybe if I was still young enough for clubbing and those sort of bars I'd want Seoul, but for week in and week out Daegu is a great place to live. It maintains that traditional Korea well, but I can still grab a steak or a tandoori chicken if I really need it. Plus given its location I can easily hop a bus or train to just about anywhere for very little.

But what do you think? I know a few people who live or have lived in Seoul. Am I being fair or would I feel differently if I lived there?