Wednesday, August 15, 2018

Saigon 2018

This summer, I had planned to visit Vancouver, but finances, and other issues, made it so we had to postpone it until next year. While I am more than a bit depressed about that, I am happy to get to spend so much time in both Manila and Saigon. I'll save Manila for another post, and work on Saigon here.

Last time I was in Saigon was in 2015 doing the CELTA, and I did not enjoy the city much. I think part of it was the Celta, a redundant and grossly overpriced teaching "qualification" I was doing there. It left me with a bitter taste in my mouth regarding Saigon. It also didn't help that I was living on Bui Vien, the backpacker ghetto of Saigon. This combination, after so many years in Korea and with a much superior qualification already under my belt, left me ready to get out. However, the opportunity to visit friends doesn't come along every day, and given that two of my best ones now live there, and seem to really enjoy it, I decided to head back. I'm really glad I did.

First off, Saigon off of Bui Vien is actually a cool city. Lots of places to visit and, while there is not much to see compare to the central and northern parts of Vietnam, there is way more to do. Walks, parks, coffee shops and bars all make for a surprisingly liveable city when you are actually able to live there. I've changed my mind about it so much so that I would seriously entertain job options there in the future. It also helped that Mike and Will were such exceptional hosts that it made it almost impossible NOT to have a good time, but the city itself was cool, and I certainly hope to head back before long, but that will depend on exactly what happens and where I wind up this semester. In fact, Mike was good enough to let me sleep on his fold out couch for a week. While I wouldn't expect that every time I visit, it was very generous, and made the whole trip very affordable as well as fun, so that was great too.

As to what I did. Well speaking of the CELTA, I never actually bothered to pick it up, as no one has ever asked me for it once they see the MA (see how useful it is?), but given that I was staying walking distance from the ILA I did it at, I thought it made sense to pick it up. To be fair, the ILA Vietnamese staff were always great when I was doing it there, and they still are, finding it for me in a storage locker somewhere. So now I have it. Yay.

Otherwise I did a couple walking tours with Will along the river and around district 1. The three of us also hit a few bars, and otherwise just hung out. It was great to see Saigon off of Bui Vien, and as I said, it completely changed my perspective on Saigon in particular, and Vietnam in general. I hope to go back again soon, and with the MUCH improved visa process, it makes it much more accessible on a 4 day weekend from Korea. Though Mike has already suggested meeting up in Cebu city next time, which could also be fun, and it is also very accessible from Korea.

In any event, I hope to head back soon.


Saturday, July 28, 2018

Hong Kong 2018

Last Thursday, we took the 8am train from Nanning East to Shenzhen, first class. It was nice, as on Chinese trains it is well worth the upgrade to first class. We then hopped a taxi to the HK border. Crossing took a bit of time, mostly because Chinese customs agents didn't seem to understand that, as resident holders, we don't need any card when we leave as tourists do. It wasn't a huge deal, just frustrating. We then crossed in to Hong Kong, which was smooth and efficient. After that it was a train ride to Kowloon. My coworker Charlie was with us, as he was also flying out of Hong Kong (though a few days after us).

We stayed at the Imperial. A solid 3 star hotel in a great location. The first day we headed for dinner in Chungking Mansions, a notorious backpacker/traveller place that doe not live up to reputation for danger or adventure, but certainly does for high quality Indian food at rock bottom prices.

The next day I took Yen to the Peak.  To get there you take the Peak tram, walk through a shopping mall, and exit. I've done it several times now, but she never has. It is cool, but probably the last time I'll do it unless with someone who really wants to. The views remain amazing, but I've done it. We also did a walk around Hong Kong island, which is always fun. That night we found Ned Kelly's bar in Kowloon , and had fish and chips and a pint of HK beer. 

The next day, on Charlie's suggestion, we took a harbour cruise, which took an old Star Ferry out to Lantau and back, docking at Hong Kong Disneyland. It was a very cool way to see Hong Kong, and something I would love to do again. Being that the port is the whole reason for the existence of Hong Kong, a visit does seem incomplete unless you get out on it. We also saw the Kowloon gardens and the HK History Museum. The museum was very interesting, if only for its honesty. Mainland museums tend to be big to propaganda (not a bad word in the mainland) and light on facts. It was interesting to see Tiananmen Square brought up so casually, and accurately, or the fact that many of the mainland's best and brightest fled to Hong Kong where they would be safe from Mao and the cultural revolution. I wonder if it is translated in to Chinese as honestly.

At this point I have been back and forth through that city several times, and while I love it, it reminds me a bit of when I used to get back from Seoul, or as I do with Manila or Cebu now. Always a good time, but not a lot to actually write about, as I've written about it all before. It is more of a journal entry that a blog, though I guess that is okay as well.
the Harbour

Star Ferries

From the Peak

Kowloon Gardens

Old Clock Tower.

Sunday, July 15, 2018

Last Monday in Nanning

It is dawn here in Nanning on my last Monday morning here. Next Monday morning I will be in Manila, waking to some eggs and chicken adobo, and probably heading to MOA to get some much needed new clothes.

My last post was fairly down. I think because I had been talking about Korea with a friend here who is going back, and what is on offer there financially. I am also a bit annoyed at the way the university has us out within 48 hours of turning in exams. It is a lack of professional courtesy that no university in Canada would ever extend to a visiting Chinese professor. In Korea I had a month after my last day. I won't even get in to the weekly disaster that was the writing programme. I think the whole semester in general has left a very bad taste in my mouth.

So I should balance that with a more positive view because there is more to be excited about than not. Even if I am not saving as much as I need to be, I have gained that magical two years experience. When and if I do head back to the ROK, I will be eligible for full pension, housing assistance, and a very decent salary. I earned that by coming here. I am actually very fortunate in what I've been able to do in Guangxi personally and professionally, and while it is time to move on, I should be proud of what I have done, not just beat myself up for what I haven't. I also have a great summer ahead. I do wish I was visiting Vancouver, but that will have to wait til next year. I do get to see Yen's family in Manila, and head to Saigon to stay with Mike for a week, which I am also very excited about. Even if I break the bank a bit, I am seeing some of my best friends, giving my wife a great summer, and heading back to a job with a minimum 30% raise. How good is that?

Also, I have been going back over my posts since 2010 and have come to realize something. In 2012 I was on about when I was going to get back to grad school. In 2014 I was always on about when I was finishing and moving on from cram schools in Korea. In 2017 I am thinking about getting out of Nanning. Not a lot of living in the moment. So for the rest of the week I plan to do a bit more of that. Today is my last exam followed by 4 hours (at least) of grading. But then it is done. I submit it Tuesday morning and collect my last paycheque. I then have a bit of packing but I mostly hope to enjoy my last couple of days at GXU. I have done everything I wanted to here, so I think it will be more a cup of coffee or a pint by the ficus tree, but that sounds great.

Otherwise, as stated before, I am not feeling much in the way of sentimentality about leaving. I'll miss the people I've met here, but I also know I'll see most of them again in the next 12 months.

Saturday, July 7, 2018

Finishing at SCIC

Today I finished my last day of classes at GXU. I still have exams, but with no more classes time here slows right down.

I will miss the students very much, but I do not think I will miss the job or the place. I remember being at Moonkkang when that ship was sinking, and it was not pleasant. This place is the same, and I will be happy to be off to a more secure public job. I also feel that, on a personal note, I have well and truly "done" Guangxi. Of course there are always more places to visit, but I have hit the major areas, and spent more time in Nanning than anyone really needs to. The tickets to Shenzhen are booked, and we will cross in to Hong Kong from there.

I was last in Hong Kong in 2013 with Mike, and Yen has never been there, so that should be fun. I'll be back at the end of August to pick up the new visa, before we head off to a year in Zhuhai. The new job should offer more than my current one, and in an environment that I am excited to explore.

That being said, I am already looking forward to 2019-2020. I am starting to think it may have been a mistake not just going back to Korea this year. Certainly with 3 years I'll be able to get back with a good job, but I am not sure what this next year does for me professionally beyond putting one of the top universities in China on my resume. I am hoping there will be opportunities to grow professionally, but as of now I have no real idea. Personally, I am not actually looking forward to this 6 week break. It will be fun, I'll be in both the Philippines and Vietnam, but I can kiss my semester's savings goodbye. But that is how it works here. Finish my last exam on July 16th, visa expires July 20th. Don't come back til September 3rd. The visa process on the whole has cost me at least one full paycheque, and with this extended break, my last couple.

A friend here put it very well, China simply wants too much for too little.

Not that I am not excited about Guangzhou completely. The region has been one of my favourite places in China, indeed Asia, and the new job does look rewarding.  I also would like to visit Beijing. I do want to head in to September with a positive outlook, and I am hoping it is a great place to be. I also think being in a more cosmopolitan area will give me a new look at the place. Who knows, I may be on here in 6 months talking about how great it is and signing on for the long term.

However, as I get older, I am more interested in a place to live and make money at a job I like. Canada is an option. What I ultimately would like to do is move back with Yen, finish my BEd, and teach High School somewhere in western Canada. But for now Korea is probably the better bet. Pension, good healthcare, very professional environment, and, well, a lot more money. I came to China to get the professional experience I needed. Two years full time after graduation is considered industry minimum in most places, and as of today I have that. In that sense this has been the best two years of my life. However, I still feel like I am in the proverbial minors, even if the new job is in the Yankees minor league system. I am okay with three years in AAA, but eventually I need to play in the majors or else find another job.

But looking back at SCIC, the highlights (which is always what you remember in the long run) are:
-the coworkers/friends I met here.
-the students.
-the ability to pay for my wedding.
-exploring Guangxi.
-getting the two years.

So what exactly will I do this summer?

I'll be in HK for the weekend before heading to Manila. We will visit Yen's brother and cousins, and buy me some new clothes. We will also visit a few national parks, and celebrate our first wedding anniversary. Then her sister comes in from Connecticut. They will head south for an Arbonida family reunion while I will go to Saigon to sleep on Mike's couch, visit him and Will, and finally pick up my CELTA certificate. Then back to the Philippines, Hong Kong, and Zhuhai. Yen will join me a couple weeks after I arrive in Zhuhai.


Monday, June 25, 2018

Beihai

For Yen's birthday, I decided to take her to Beihai, an old colonial port city on the Guangxi coast. We left at 8:30 Saturday morning on the 90 minute train ride from Nanning, and got the train back at 4pm Sunday. Enough time to see the city and relax.

We arrived at 10 an went straight away to the old colonial district. Beihai was one of the treaty ports opened up after 1876 and, for a brief period, it had a small boom. British, French, Dutch, and Portuguese merchants set up shop along the north end of the city (which is built on a peninsula that juts out westward in to the South China Sea). However, by 1900 it was clear that Beihai would not be another Shanghai or Hong Kong, and most of the merchants pulled up and left before the outbreak of WWI. What is left then, is a few blocks of decaying 19th and early 20th century building, with only the first floors being maintained.

Zhuhai rd

Old colonial ruins



However, it was very hot and so after a couple hours we opted to head to our hotel. Being that it was Yen's birthday I opted for a good hotel. We got the only in China named "Golden Shining New World Grand Hotel" with an ocean view and a balcony. It was actually a couple blocks back from the ocean, but still a great view. It also had a Chinese restaurant that had some of the best Chinese food I have had here. Definitely a place I would stay again.

After a couple hours hiding from the sun we decided to head out to the beach. Silver beach stretches for several kilometres along the south side of the city. There are two sections of the beach, one free and one not. The free section was nice but crowded and dirty. Beer cans and plastic forks floating in the sea.

However, the pay section was spectacular. The beach has gotten some hate online but I have no idea why. Yes it sucks that you have to pay 100rmb to have a clean beach because local yokels don't have enough decency to clean up after themselves, but this is the PRC. For 100rmb you get a huge, beautiful beach. At night it was almost deserted and Yen and I had a km of it all to ourselves, watching lighting in the distance in the dark. One of my better experiences in Asia. We liked it enough to come back the next day after we checked out of the hotel. 





However, by 1:30 we were hot and ready to head back, so we went to a Starbucks near the train station for a small lunch, then headed back to Nanning.

Beihai is a cool city and definitely worth a weekend trip, especially if you are in southern China. If coming from farther away it may not be worth making the trip, especially as China does as much as it can to make tourism difficult. But as a city to visit, it was well worth it. Made for a lovely birthday weekend for Yen.





Tuesday, June 19, 2018

Nanning's Qingxiu Mountain

I've started and stopped this blog several times this year, so I thought I'd finally finish it.

Qingxiushan is a large mountain area in the southeast of Nanning. It is also the largest tourist attraction in the city. It has existed for centuries, but was only converted in to a tourist spot in 1984, when the local government decided to pave road and create spaces for temples, monuments etc. 30 years later it is THE park to see in Nanning It offers a botanical garden, temples, trees, and monuments. From the university it is an hour on the B10 bus to the north gate. A bit of a trip but well worth it.

According to the official website, Qingxuishan

has been identified as the autonomous-region-level scenic spot in 1989, one of the “Top Ten Scenic Spots” of Nanning in 1997, national first AAAA Scenic Spot in 2000, Advanced Unit for Construction of National Civilized Scenic Spots in 2005 and 2009 and the “Grade A Scenic Spot in Rapidest Development” of Nanning in 2010. State leaders including Hu Jintao, Jiang Zemin, Jia Qinglin, Wu Guanzheng, Wu Yi and Hui Liangyu have visited here too. At present, the Scenic Spot is receiving tourists over 2.2 million person/times annually.

So yeah, there is that. Despite this advertising, it is actually well worth a visit if you are in Nanning.

The temples are a mix of Chinese and Thai (the mountain hosts delegations from ASEAN). Theoldest temple there allegedly dates to the 4th century, but the current one, like many of the temples in the PRC, was constructed in the 1980's as they cleaned up from the Cultural Revolution. Still, the current temple is impressive, if not historical. The Thai temple was built in the 1990's to celebrate Chinese/Thai friendship. It is less a temple and more a tourist attraction shaped like a temple. Still, both are interesting enough to see.

Thai Temple

Chinese temple

There are also several monuments in the park, usually dedicated to communist leaders or anti-Japanese uprisings. Though the history of the park is offered in Chinese or, less comprehensible to the English speaker, Chinglish, they are interesting to see.

anti-Japanese monument

ASEAN statues.
This one is obviously the Philippines

a gate. No idea.


Walking around the mountain area takes a few hours. It is usually a full day, especially in the summer months, when water and shade are necessary. Well worth the trip out for the scenery, plants, and overall green. Also being on a hill mountain it is a bit cooler in the hottest months.



Finishing Up in Nanning

With a month to go here in Nanning I am really starting to look forward to the next stage of my career. The next four weeks will be busy, but it'll be nice to finally be done.

I still have two and a half weeks of classes left, plus a 6 day intensive at the IELTS Centre. It is a nice little chunk of change to finish in Nanning with, though it leaves me a bit rushed. Still, nice to keep busy these next four weeks. It will also be nice to finish with motivated students, as all the ones at the College have already graduated (or haven't) and so have no motivation at all. Makes my life easier, but less enjoyable. Professionally though, Nanning was good for me. It gave me an intro in to university work, and showed me what to do (and in the case of one college, what not to do), but even that is valuable information moving forward. In that sense GXU has been a success, and I am happy to have had that experience. However, professionally there really isn't anywhere for me to go here, so that limits any interest in staying.

Personally there is absolutely no reason to stay. I am actually very ready to head out. Nanning has been great for making friends, but that is about it. I do enjoy having bbq's by the lake near our apartments, and walking around the west lake near here, but that is not reason enough to live in a city. There is just nothing in Nanning. Even the campus, which was once a green oasis in a dull, grey, urban sprawl, is being dug up. Any green space or hint of China pre-1998 are being systematically destroyed to make way for ostentatious gates and grey buildings. Time to move on.

The province of Guangxi is far more beautiful, but with trips to GuilinDetian,and Tongling Gorge done, and Beihai this coming weekend, I feel that I have "done" Guangxi. Obviously there is more to see, and I haven't really been to the northwest at all, but as a 20 month stay goes, where the focus was on professional development and paying for a wedding, I have still seen the highlights, which were spectacular. So with little going on personally, and less professionally, it is time to move on.

That being said, I hope to keep in touch with the people I have met here, some of which are staying. I don't think I'll ever be nostalgic for Nanning the way I am for Daegu (in fact, I know I won't), but the friends I have made here have made the last two years much better than they otherwise would have been, and I will be nostalgic for that. Mike, Matt, Charlie, Tad, Richard. I'll hopefully be in touch with all of them in the years to come.

Sunday, June 10, 2018

Tongling Gorge

After Detian, we took the hour long drive up to Tongling, arriving at the hotel at around 6pm. At 130rmb ($26Cad/22,000krw) it was about the best deal you could get. We then headed for dinner and a couple Saigon beers we had picked up at Detian in the park next to the lit up gate. I was hoping to see stars, but the sky was very overcast, so we were out of luck.

gate at night

view from the room

out front

After a long day at Detian we were asleep well before 10pm. 

The next day we were up at 6am to get breakfst and head down in to Tongling gorge. Although not nearly as visited by tourists as the falls, I think I may have liked the gorge more. A canyon in a sub tropical rainforest that ends with a much taller waterfall. I say hiking, but most of it - as with many natural places developed for tourism in China - has lots of steps. Something my knees are feeling today.

Much as with Detian, there isn't that much to say, it is something to see and experience.

mountains at the top on the gorge

making our way down

the raging river

the falls

To hike the whole gorge in and out you only NEED about 90 minutes, but we stayed for almost three hours. It was such a great place to experience. It is a beautiful part of western Guangxi. The whole area is the northern end of the karst mountains that spread through Vietnam in to Thailand and Burma. 

After the hike we quickly showered (my shirt looked like I had been swimming in it - a gorge in a humid tropical climate does not lend itself to air circulation. It is like breathing water). Then, it was off to Jingxi, a small town just west of the gorge for lunch and a quick look around. It was a cool small town, but an hour was about all we needed. Then the four hour drive back to Nanning.
Jingxi reservoir


The trip was definitely a highlight of Guangxi for me and up there with Guilin as the best of Guangxi. We will be in Beihai later this month for Yen's birthday, but otherwise our time in Guangxi is up. We (or at least I) will be back in October to grab a couple boxes we are leaving in storage, but I doubt I will be in Guangxi again except for an occasional visit to friends in Nanning. So it seemed like if we were going to see any more of the province it is now or never. I am very glad that we did.


Detian

This weekend, Yen and I went with my coworker Richard and his wife Xiaohua to the Detian waterfalls along the Chinese the border with Vietnam. Detian is advertised as the "3rd largest transnational border waterfall in the world" and despite that advertising, it is actually a very cool place.

To get there usually requires a bus ride across town to Langdong terminal, then a bus ride back across town before heading west, meaning 2 hours after we leave our front door we would be right back there. So we decided to hire a driver. At 500 rmb a day (100Cad/84,000krw/4200php) plus tolls and gas it was only a couple hundred more per couple than taking the bus. Plus we had a car, and not a bus full of Chinese tourists. It also meant that we had a lot more time at the falls than we would get if we took the bus.

We left at 645am and were at the entrance to the falls my 10am. The entrance is 10km from the falls but they offer a shuttle bus for a mere 45rmb (roll eyes) or you can walk. Given it was a great day, we decided to walk it. The locals thought we were nuts, but it was actually a very pleasant walk, which got very cool as you approached the Guichun river and realize that you are looking across it in to Vietnam.

northern Vietnam

a customs point

The border seemed very porous, and people on the Vietnamese side were clearly loading up small boats to take concrete across the river as we were walking by. It is always strange to me, a border is just a line in the sand, and yet on the Vietnamese side it is dirt road and shacks, and on the Chinese side it is paved roads and walkways.

After the walk we entered the main tourist area, and decided to stop for lunch. We went for "Vietnamese" food (Chinese food written in Chinese AND Vietnamese) and then headed in to the falls. The area around the falls is another 6-7 kms.

Tourist area

The area around the falls is spectacular. The falls themselves are beautiful, and well worth the effort it takes to get there. The larger part of the falls fall on the Chinese side and so, much like Niagara falls, seeing them from the north is considered the better way to go. However, unlike Niagara, it is not an easy border to cross, and so we opted to stay in the north. Anyway, pictures are worth more than words so:

countryside

left is in Vietnam, right is (mostly) in China.

Chinese side

from up top

There is some dispute between China and Vietnam over where the exact border is located (China has a border dispute, how unlike them.....). The old stone marker set between the French and the Qing has it north of the falls, whereas administratively it has been about a km south between the falls. There is also some legitimate issues with it being moved north by the French during the republican period in China. In reality the river makes the border the entire way, and neither side seems particularly interested in arguing about it. Unfortunately the stone marker was not open when we got there, so we couldn't see it.

After a few hours there we opted to head back. We were heading to Tongling to stay near the gorge and hike it the next morning.

To get there by bus, go to Langdong bus terminal in Nanning and get the direct bus to Detian (early morning, times change) or else the bus to Daxui county and then transfer. The last (only?) bus back directly to Nanning leaves the falls at 3pm, so if you are doing the buses directly there and back, you will only get about two and a half hours at the falls. Enough to shuttle in, see the falls, and leave. But if you want to hike and explore the area, better to stay near the falls. You can also do what we did and rent a car. Any tourist centre in Nanning can help arrange this for you, and if you have a group of 4-5 it isn't all that much more. You can also do what we did and combine it with Tongling gorge and somewhere else to get in as much of western Guangxi as you can. Unless you are on a real shoestring budget, or are travelling solo, I'd get the car.



Thursday, May 3, 2018

Many Trips to Guangzhou

Not my first time in this southern city. I first went in January 2017 with Mark, a coworker who was leaving Guangxi. It was my introduction to the city and I loved it. I went back in November to pick Yen up and again during the winter vacation almost to the day I went for the first time as I took her to get a flight back to Manila. I'll rack up at least two more before I leave Nanning for good.

Last week, I took a trip with Matt to Guangzhou to get our ID notarized at the Canadian consulate, and enjoy a bit of the big city. We honestly ended up spending half our trip at Paddy's Irish pub.

We got in late very late on the Wednesday, but our appointment with the Consulate wasn't until 2pm. So that was great. We got there relatively early, around 1:30 and were brought right in. Whole thing took 45 minutes, with authentication taking 20 minutes of that. Very impressed. The Canadian consulate is also in a great location. We headed to Shamian, which I have seen a couple times, but Matt hadn't. Otherwise it was low key.

I'll be headed back for a fifth time next weekend to get Yen again. I am not sure if we will pass through on our way out in July (we might go straight to Shenzhen).


Guangzhou has very quickly become to me what Busan was in Korea. A very cool and international port city to visit on weekends. Given that next September we will be in Zhuhai, which is a 45 minute light rail ride to Guangzhou, we may end up there quite a bit.

Friday, April 6, 2018

Yangmei Ancient Town. Nanning

I have just spent a night in Yangmei, and "ancient" town about 90 minutes west of Nanning. As a tourist destination it is definitely in that category of "as long as you're here," but it is still well worth the trip out if you are here.

The bus can be caught at the Nanning tourism centre just past the main gate and Luban Lu subway station on the south side of the street. An 8:30 bus gets you there around 10-10:15 depending on traffic.

The town itself is small, and a day trip is certainly enough to see it. That being said, there is a hotel right on the waterfront charging 100Yuan for a night (about $14USD) with nice views of the river, especially from the 3rd floor.

view from the hotel

The city is on the Zhuo river, a tributary of the Yong river which flows through Nanning. The term ancient is a bit misleading, as the oldest building in the city are closer to 100 years old than the 1000 advertised. Still, it is a neat old town.

Before the republican period, the city was a centre for shipping local produce to the bigger cities and even for export. A few merchants grew rich and the city prospered. As the republicans replaced river transport with roads and rail, the city lost its importance and became a backwater, and to this day very little has changed. Unfortunately, any history on the place is written more to glorify than inform (in this spot some hero of some revolution did something), so actual history of the village is hard to come by beyond what is here.

There is a fair bit of walking/light hiking, and some old ruins. The trail runs along the river for almost 15kms before looping back in to the city. Along the trail are old barge wrecks, farmers still using ox carts to get around. The Confucius temple, destroyed in Mao's Cultural Revolution, was partially rebuilt and now sits quietly by the river, which is where I wound up having a few Yanjing beers after the sun went down. The city itself has some old Qing era buildings, and is a great place for a stroll in itself, though the waterfront was the highlight for me.There are boat cruises that last about 45 minutes for 30rmb that are well worth the expense as well, as the river has some great scenery just outside the town. The locals are also wonderful. The restaurant attached to our hotel was family owned, and they insisted their 12 year old daughter take our orders - in English - for practice. But it wasn't in that 20 questions way that makes me leery of being approached in that way (where are you from? Do you like Chinese food? Do you know ......?). Her English was actually quite good and she was fun. 

Beyond that there is not much to actually DO, but I could easily spend 3-4 days there just relaxing and experiencing it. It is a part of China that is disappearing quickly, replaced by neon lights and smokey restaurants full of adults shouting at each other or playing card games. Brick houses replaced by concrete boxes and river cruises replaced by phone games. I guess that in progress in the PRC..... I suppose I just don't understand what the Chinese see as progress.

In any event, it is a cool place to visit if you happen to be in Nanning for a few days, or want out of this grey concrete jungle.








Tuesday, April 3, 2018

New Contract and New Job

Two weeks ago I interviewed at Beijing Normal University's campus in Zhuhai (next to Macau). I never expected to get it. I got it.

I've talked to Yen about it and she agrees I should take it, so we will be heading there this summer. It has thrown our travel plans in to disarray, and while I was really hoping to head back to Vancouver this summer, we may not have the cash necessary for 2 tickets, three weeks and all the costs associated with that with the move. Still working it all out.

However, the job itself seems better academically, and the location is ideal. Next to the ocean and a national park, 40 minutes from Macau and Guangzhou, and 90 minutes from Hong Kong on the ferry. Pay is also substantially better. I took this job in Nanning to get university experience, and while I've had a good run here at SCIC, it is entry level uni work, and that is reflected in the pay.

A final issue associated with the move is the new visa regulations for China. While they are actually very sensible (Korea has had the same system in place for a decade) they are time consuming and expensive. I'll end up spending close to $600 USD to get it all done, as I'll need to head to Guangzhou in a couple weeks to get my ID notarised. Though any excuse to go to Guangzhou.......

Anyway, it is exciting as I really didn't think I'd get this job, and the location means that I should hopefully be happy there.

Saturday, March 3, 2018

Nanning's Nanhu Park

Another large park in Nanning is Nanhu Park. It is a very large lake park in central Nanning. The park itself is new, only being built in 1972 when the government decided to dam a river that flowed in to the Yong river, the river had been continuously dredged since the Tang dynasty. Creating the lake cut down on flooding and created a beautiful green area in the city.

There are a few sights in the park, though most are man made and of minimal interest, with the exception of the gardens. The orchid and bonsai gardens are both very impressive and well worth a visit if you enjoy plants.

The path around the lake is a good 10km and in the hottest months that means litres of water, but for most of the year it is a great walk.

To get there, get off at Nanhu Park subway station and use exit B1. The park is right there.








Saturday, February 17, 2018

Nanning's Renmin Park

This park, located in the west of Nanning, is one of the few landmarks in Nanning. Built in 1951 on the remains of an old Song dynasty temple and later a republican era fortification. The park provides a rare green space in Nanning's concrete jungle.

The park has a few sights. A small fort with some republican era antiques. It was built very shortly after the 1912 revolution, and was used primarily against bandits and others in the province. It was built by a local mayor (warlord) and was later used by the actual republican government against the Japanese during the Second World War. There is lots more information at the fort itself, but all in Chinese.

The large lake at the bottom of the hill the fort is built on is called White Dragon Lake. According to legend (the plaque near the lake), during the Song dynasty a Daoist rolled down the hill and found immortality. I guess you really should do a barrel roll. The temple is long gone, but the lake and hill still exist.

There is also a large memorial to Mao and the communists who died in Guangxi during the various revolutions in the early 20th century. Next to it is a small museum to commemorate Mao's 1958 visit to the city. That much of the Great Leap Backward's policy was implemented in Nanning at that time goes unrecognized, but the people lining the river to see him and paintings to show his greatness abound. It is really a microcosm of how Mao is viewed in China. A great leader who liberated the people and was adored for it.... but don't look in to anything he actually did.

The park itself is much smaller than other parks in Nanning, but the history there makes it worth a visit..... since you're in Nanning anyway.






Guangzhou (again)

Last week Yen and I went to Guangzhou, for what is her second trip there and my third. We were going to take her to the airport, so thought we'd spend a couple of days there. Because of the New Year festivals, Guangzhou was near empty, and subsequently we managed to stay at the Garden Hotel - a place where diplomatic license plates were pulling in - for relatively little. It was a treat for sure, but well worth it.

The first evening we headed to the Paddy Field, and Irish bar. After finding that gem in Guilin I was in the mood for an Irish pub. They also had San Miguel there, so I was happy. After that we headed back for an early night.

The next day we headed to Yuexiu Park, to see another of the sights of Guangzhou. It was walking distance from the hotel and was well worth the trek. The park was previously part of the old city wall and parts of the wall can still be seen. The area itself has been an important area in Guangzhou for centuries, though most of it was flattened in the Second World War. However, the park still contains several important relics and sights, some of which have been rebuilt and some of which are modern. The most important being the 5 ram statue, built in 1960 to commemorate the restoration of the park. In ancient times, people believed that five immortals riding rams came to Guangzhou and taught the people to farm rice. Today it is seen as a good luck symbol and Guangzhou is known in Chinese as the city of rams. There is also the Zhenhai Tower, a replica of a watch tower originally built in 1380 and destroyed and rebuilt several times since in a part of the park that was originally a fort. Other sights include the city's soccer stadium, lakes, and a replica of the original gate to the park.

After a long walk we decided to head back to the hotel, shower, and get dinner at the Brazilian BBQ place we went to the first night we were in Guangzhou when I went to pick Yen up.

The next day it was off to the airport. Yen will go home to visit her sister and get her new visa, and I will be in Nanning for the next couple of weeks before the semester starts. I plan to do a couple of write ups about areas in Nanning, and otherwise enjoy a couple of weeks off.

Lunar N.Y decorations

5 Ram Statue

Zhenhai Tower