Sunday, December 8, 2013

Macau

On my fourth trip to Hong Kong I finally took the 70 minute ferry ride out to Macau to see Portugal's version of Hong Kong. I was pleasantly surprised.

Macau is famous as a sort of Chinese Las Vegas, but that comparison is unfair. Las Vegas was essentially thrown together in the 1940's and 50's by real life versions of the Corleone family. Everything there is artificial. Vegas is just a place to gamble, eat and swim, but it is fun. In the 21st century it is even family friendly. 

Macau casino's are not fun at all. It is a game of spot the nouveau-riche mainlanders (not hard, the men with their suits out of the mid 80's and long, greasy hair and excessive jewellery next to their wives with their shiny track suits, less than subtle plastic surgeries, over-sized sunglasses and Louis Vuitton bags that are bigger than they are) gamble and gamble some more. No drinks, no buffets, no pools. Just gamble. It is also not a place for kids. We left at 8 for Hong Kong but even then the working girls were already noticeable. 

However, unlike Las Vegas, Macau has a real history. It was a Portuguese colony for five hundred years and that mix of Portugal and southern Chinese cultures has left a real legacy. There are actual sights to see, not just replica's of famous things. A walk across the peninsula will get you a real park and colonial lighthouse, ruins, a shopping district that gives Hong Kong a run for its money, several amazing seaside walks and Macau tower, where you can sit and watch Macau light up at night (the best part of the casino's is the light show they give). In fact the casino's are only one area of Macau, the rest is residential or tourist related. You can easily spend a day in Macau and not even visit a casino (though walking through one is amazing for people watching). In fact, were I to visit Macau again I would eat and visit a few lesser places we didn't have time to see. I doubt I would visit a casino at all. Try going to Vegas without hitting a casino.


Anyway, for our visit we took an 11am ferry from Sheung Wan in Hong Kong and were in Macau before 1. We walked across the south of the peninsula, up to a Potuguese fort to get views of the city. The residential areas were very telling, where there were new, ultra-modern high rises next to buildings that would be condemned in the west. To the south was the main downtown area. We then headed through town to the ruins of St. Paul's Cathedral. At one point the largest Catholic Church in Asia, it was abandoned when Jesuits were banned by the church and suffered a fire years later. Today only the main entrance exists but it is still spectacular. Next was a walk through a very crowded downtown area to the casino district and from there south to Macau Tower. You can see from there just how close mainland China is to Macau. In Hong Kong you could forget that the mainland exists but not in Macau. Anyway, at the top of Macau Tower we sat down for a couple of beers and watched Macau light up. Then it was off to the casino's, dinner, and Hong Kong.

Macau Ferry Terminal

Colonial Era Street

Many People

Old and New Macau

Residential Area

Ruins of St. Paul

The Near Side of the River is Macau, the far
side is Mainland China

The Bridges to Taipa and Coloane

The Casinos at Night

Nice Beer

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