So I am not sure why this city gets so much hate. It is big, polluted and has some fairly intense poverty, but no more so than other third world cities. However the people are friendly, the place is a safe as you can get with those conditions and there is a lot to do, if not a lot to see.
We landed at 1030 and made our way quickly to our hotel, Casa Bocobo (an amazing hotel, I would recommend it to anyone). We then went to explore Intramuros, the old Spanish centre of government (and after 1898 American/Japanese). It was actually really run down except for the sections that you paid to get in to. We spent two days walking around the walls and exploring the neighbouring Rizal Park and National Museum. It was fun.
Intramuros is the old fortified city built in the 16th century by Spanish conquerors. From here they ruled the Philippines until 1898. The area has several huge churches (unfortunately closed for repairs/maintenance), huge walls with a fort and a golf course (seriously). Inside the walls (what Intramuros means in Latin) there are many old Spanish buildings, small shops and a few too many touts. Still a great place to see.
We started out by grabbing a cab to San Augustine Church, which was unfortunately closed. We then walked around the wall and shops. On the way we had a great view of the city, some good street food and several children running around exposing themselves to tourists (seriously). They seemed to think it was funny and they were like five so no real harm I guess. The next day we also got a look at the Pasig river, which cuts through Manila to the bay and is notorious as one of the most polluted rivers in the world, which unfortunately was true. We also managed to visit the old fort and Rizal monument (Rizal was an independence figure who was executed by the Spanish in 1898 for treason - we wrote about Philippine independence - after he was executed the Philippines descended in to chaos and when the Americans showed up the Spanish were in no position to put up a fight. Thus Rizal is credited with being a martyr for Filipino independence). The fort was amazing and well maintained.
South of it is Rizal Park, an area that is very clean and well maintained in a city that is not otherwise so. There are several huge monuments to various Philippine independence fighters (independence from Spain and Japan). It is a great place just to hang out. There is a noticeable security presence there which may account for the cleanliness and safety. In the park is a fountain and Chinese gardens. On the east side of the park is the National Museum of the Philippines which is actually interesting and informative without being overly patriotic and one sided (not always the case in Asian museums).
On the Saturday night we also found a small Aussie bar and an open air place with live bands. The Aussie bar was actually really depressing, as it was just old expats drinking by themselves (we were the youngest guys in there by twenty years). Some were married to Filipino's but none seemed to be there for any reason or have any purpose, just boozing until they die. Sad actually. the open air bar however was amazing. Two live cover bands and a guy who wanted 100 peso's to give a massage and would ambush you while you were using the urinal. We also had beer towers and decent food (though heavily fried).
We also managed to visit the Chinatown, though the only thing Chinese about it was a sign that welcomed you to Chinatown. We also visited Makati, a very upscale part of Manila where most high end hotels are located. However there is nothing to actually do there besides go shopping.
Other notable stuff included our cabbie who was clearly on something getting us to Oyahami bus terminal in record time and the Starbucks with an armed guard as a sort of greeter.
Manila seems to get a lot of hate but I don't get it. It is a bit stressful at times and in some areas the poverty is painful (we did see a homeless child using a plastic bag as a toilet in the middle of a crowded sidewalk) but if you have any common sense you can enjoy it well enough, though two days is probably enough.
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