Well Bolaven is over and for me it was a very rainy day. About 60mm of rain fell on Daegu in a short time and schools were closed in a few places, or they at least opened late. I worked and by 9pm it was nice enough to go get some bbq. A few places were closed, a few trees were blown over and a few signs and power lines fell but as far as I can tell there were no fatalities in Korea.
the best pictures the BBC have are here and three of the six are from one rescue, one is of Koreans under unbrella's and one is of flights cancelled. Katrina it was not (thankfully). Given the hysteria some media outlets here (and a few esl teachers on public and private foums) you'd think no one had ever been through a tropical storm before. Personally I enjoyed it.
There were a few fatalities on Okinawa, and Chinese fishermen died while at sea (fishing in a typhoon, well done boys) but overall it's property damage and a lot of rain.
Tuesday, August 28, 2012
Monday, August 27, 2012
It Looks Like a Tropical Earthquake Blew Through Here
Typhoon Bolaven is set to hit mainland Korea early Tuesday morning, landing in the southwestern point in the country. It has already hit Okinawa is Japan and will likely hit Jeju-do early this morning. While Daegu is far enough inland to expect nothing but a torrential dumping of rain, cities like Mok'po are on full alert. Ports have been shut down and I have heard that Gimhae has suspended flights for tomorrow morning. Classes are on tomorrow (though they are cancelled in much of the country) but they don't start until 10:30.
I'll keep anyone at home updated, but for me I don't expect much more than a miserable walk to work.
Saturday, August 25, 2012
R.I.P Neil Armstrong
In a real bit of sad news, U.S astronaut Neil Armstrong passed away this morning at the age of 82. President Obama called him "a great American hero, not just of his time, but of all time" which I think is still an understatement. Armstrong was truly a world hero, in the same way that Yuri Gagarin or anyone else who has set records in space exploration is a hero. But Armstrong truly outshines them all, I mean he landed on the moon.
His achievements and those of NASA at the time must surely go down as the greatest accomplishment of the 20th century. A century otherwise so fraught with violence and conflict. Some have even said that the moon landing was done as much to beat the Soviets there as to do it, but I find that a sad way to look at it. Forty years on the reasons for so much of the Cold War seem so stupid and really incomprehensible to someone in my generation. You want to put missiles in Cuba? You want to interfere in Vietnam's anti-colonial movement? Sounds dumb to me. But this accomplishment puts all of that in its place and shows just what humans can do if we put our heads to it. I mean when one looks back at ancient Egypt one tends not to dwell on conflict with the Hittites or the Phonecians but we all know about the pyramids. I firmly believe that Neil Armstrong's achievements will mirror that for the United States in generations to come.
As a person he was also very humble, speaking out only occasionally such as in 2010 when he was openly critical of President Obama's cuts to NASA funding (a criticism that is very just in my opinion) but otherwise keeping to himself. He taught at the University of Cincinnati until he retired, gave only periodic interviews and never gave in to the temptation to use his stature to sell products or influence decisions in Washington outside of NASA.
He was truly a great man, a hero and a credit to all of humanity. R.I.P.
His achievements and those of NASA at the time must surely go down as the greatest accomplishment of the 20th century. A century otherwise so fraught with violence and conflict. Some have even said that the moon landing was done as much to beat the Soviets there as to do it, but I find that a sad way to look at it. Forty years on the reasons for so much of the Cold War seem so stupid and really incomprehensible to someone in my generation. You want to put missiles in Cuba? You want to interfere in Vietnam's anti-colonial movement? Sounds dumb to me. But this accomplishment puts all of that in its place and shows just what humans can do if we put our heads to it. I mean when one looks back at ancient Egypt one tends not to dwell on conflict with the Hittites or the Phonecians but we all know about the pyramids. I firmly believe that Neil Armstrong's achievements will mirror that for the United States in generations to come.
As a person he was also very humble, speaking out only occasionally such as in 2010 when he was openly critical of President Obama's cuts to NASA funding (a criticism that is very just in my opinion) but otherwise keeping to himself. He taught at the University of Cincinnati until he retired, gave only periodic interviews and never gave in to the temptation to use his stature to sell products or influence decisions in Washington outside of NASA.
He was truly a great man, a hero and a credit to all of humanity. R.I.P.
Thursday, August 23, 2012
Gangnam Style
So you know that this song is a parody right?
In Korea people know that, but the unexpected success of this song outside of Korea seems to be confusing a few people.
Gangnam is the wealthiest part of Seoul. A place where an apartment that you can cross in three steps can run you $450/m (a four bedroom apartment with a mountain view can run $900/m in most big Korean cities), a cup of coffee can cost you $5 and there is more plastic surgeons than dentists. Korean celebrities and the children of those who have built the Korean economic miracle play here.
Gangnam style refers to someone, usually under 25, who has an excess of money that they have inherited (as opposed to earned themselves through hard work) and who spends it doing frivolous/stupid things.
The people in the video represent real Korean celebrities and stereotypes of people in Gangnam from the guy in the bright yellow suit and expensive car who still looks like an idiot and must out dance Psy despite the fact that Psy is clearly a terrible dancer just because he must. The sauna that is actually full of mobsters (in Korea if you are decked out in tattoo's you are in to organized crime. No one else has a tattoo bigger than the palm of their hand or a small sentence written across their arm etc.). The whole thing ends with him meeting his dream girl on the subway after being passed over by many girls that fit the female Gangnam style.
Female Gangnam Style - Don Jang No - soybean girl. Will spend more on a cup of coffee than lunch.... Gong Ju byeon - a princess who spends all of her time looking in mirrors and talking about how hot she is. She probably takes excessive photo's of herself at coffee shops to post on her facebook or Naver page (cause we have never seen a cup of coffee before and frequently forget what our friends look like). Most have had the big three plastic surgeries (eye's, nose and chin) in an attempt to get bigger eyes with a western style fold, a pointier nose and a more defined chin. Though usually they just end up looking like mixed race kids who took a stroll through Fukushima. She is also a fashion major at Seoul or Sookmin Women's University. There's has been no gender divide in Korean education in fifty years but anyway.....
Male Gangnam Style - a ridiculous haircut is a must. The more homoerotic, messy or just plain comical the better. Try it as a perm. You must be able to dance, drive an expensive car (even though you only ever go two blocks, there is no parking in Seoul and the subway goes there anyway). It's better if all your money is inherited, as actual work causes wrinkles. You study business at one of the top universities in Korea (all located in Seoul) with the idea of working for your father's company and possibly entering politics, though career playboy is also a viable option.
The fact that this song has become so popular in Gangnam clubs is the funniest part of it. It's a little like Marie Antoinette enjoying Dunkin' Donuts. Anyway, don't make fun of Psy too much, it's a parody and he's one of the good guys.
In Korea people know that, but the unexpected success of this song outside of Korea seems to be confusing a few people.
Gangnam is the wealthiest part of Seoul. A place where an apartment that you can cross in three steps can run you $450/m (a four bedroom apartment with a mountain view can run $900/m in most big Korean cities), a cup of coffee can cost you $5 and there is more plastic surgeons than dentists. Korean celebrities and the children of those who have built the Korean economic miracle play here.
Gangnam style refers to someone, usually under 25, who has an excess of money that they have inherited (as opposed to earned themselves through hard work) and who spends it doing frivolous/stupid things.
The people in the video represent real Korean celebrities and stereotypes of people in Gangnam from the guy in the bright yellow suit and expensive car who still looks like an idiot and must out dance Psy despite the fact that Psy is clearly a terrible dancer just because he must. The sauna that is actually full of mobsters (in Korea if you are decked out in tattoo's you are in to organized crime. No one else has a tattoo bigger than the palm of their hand or a small sentence written across their arm etc.). The whole thing ends with him meeting his dream girl on the subway after being passed over by many girls that fit the female Gangnam style.
Female Gangnam Style - Don Jang No - soybean girl. Will spend more on a cup of coffee than lunch.... Gong Ju byeon - a princess who spends all of her time looking in mirrors and talking about how hot she is. She probably takes excessive photo's of herself at coffee shops to post on her facebook or Naver page (cause we have never seen a cup of coffee before and frequently forget what our friends look like). Most have had the big three plastic surgeries (eye's, nose and chin) in an attempt to get bigger eyes with a western style fold, a pointier nose and a more defined chin. Though usually they just end up looking like mixed race kids who took a stroll through Fukushima. She is also a fashion major at Seoul or Sookmin Women's University. There's has been no gender divide in Korean education in fifty years but anyway.....
Male Gangnam Style - a ridiculous haircut is a must. The more homoerotic, messy or just plain comical the better. Try it as a perm. You must be able to dance, drive an expensive car (even though you only ever go two blocks, there is no parking in Seoul and the subway goes there anyway). It's better if all your money is inherited, as actual work causes wrinkles. You study business at one of the top universities in Korea (all located in Seoul) with the idea of working for your father's company and possibly entering politics, though career playboy is also a viable option.
The fact that this song has become so popular in Gangnam clubs is the funniest part of it. It's a little like Marie Antoinette enjoying Dunkin' Donuts. Anyway, don't make fun of Psy too much, it's a parody and he's one of the good guys.
Tuesday, August 21, 2012
The Room
This movie. MAAAAAAN this movie. The Room.
It is universally hailed as the worst film ever made. A 6 million dollar budget spent on who knows what.
You can watch the whole thing on youtube.
Here is a partial list of errors and a great clip from the film.
It even has its own fan made browser game.
There is so much to say about this film, but watch it and google it.
It is universally hailed as the worst film ever made. A 6 million dollar budget spent on who knows what.
You can watch the whole thing on youtube.
Here is a partial list of errors and a great clip from the film.
It even has its own fan made browser game.
There is so much to say about this film, but watch it and google it.
Sunday, August 19, 2012
North Korean Film About Celebrity Culture
Bobby showed me this film made in North Korea about western propaganda and spins it back. The full film is almost two hours and I haven't actually watched it. However, this section is about American celebrity culture. The worst part is that basically it is accurate. Paris Hilton famous for nothing, Tiger Woods as the false family man. Madonna and "Bradgellina" shopping for children in 3rd world countries (and making sure that the press knows about it). It obviously ignores a few points about their own country, but watch it and tell me if you think it is wrong, and if so where.
Another Mission to Seoul
This weekend actually sort of started on Tuesday night, as Wednesday (August 15th) is Korean Independence Day (coinciding with the Japanese surrender to the allied forces on Aug 15th 1945). It's been celebrated as Independence Day ever since so on Tuesday night Paul came up from Ulsan to meet Mike and I and celebrate with some bbq and a few beers. I spent the actual Wednesday cleaning, relaxing, watching movies etc.
Friday night was when the real Seoul trip started. Kris had left a few things in Daegu before he moved to Seoul so Mike and I were taking them up to him and spending the night at his place is east Gangnam before going our own ways on Saturday. We took the KTX and got to Kris' around one. He has an apartment in a great area with a real neighbourhood feel. It's small though. Like three of us sleeping took up the entire floor space. But to live in the heart of Seoul it is worth it. the neighbourhood is amazing though, a real neighbourhood feel. There is a little strip but it seems to close very early, though Sincheon is 10 minutes away in a cab so if we had really wanted to get going...... In the end we settled on a bbq and bed by 3.
The next day we all got up and headed across Seoul to Ilsan. I was off to see Bobby and they were both off to visit friends in Ilsan. I got off at Juyeop after a 90 minute train ride and dropped my stuff off at Bobby's place. It was threatening to rain all day so we did a bit of sightseeing between rainfalls or in the drizzle. Ilsan has a huge lake park and is generally a very affluent suburb or Seoul, though because it is technically outside of Seoul prices are kept down a bit real estate wise and food wise so housing is much better for the same price than you would get in Seoul proper and food is closer in cost to Daegu than Seoul. We hung out and swapped vacation stories before meeting several of his friends including his old coteacher, her sister and their cousins. Although only Eun Young was bilingual the rest of us managed to put enough English/Korean/alcohol together to have conversation. After that Bobby insisted on taking me to a Chinese place that had lamb, a meat that is very popular with many mainland Chinese but all but impossible to get in Korea. It was delicious and worth the midnight dinner. After that we went back to Bobby's and crashed.
Despite my joke about translating liquor we actually hadn't had that much so we were both up at 930 fresh and ready to go. I had planned to meet Jenny, Kwangho and little Jenny at COEX to see the Seoul Aquarium (back in east Gangnam) and though Bobby was invited he had some prep work to do and so decided against the 90 minute subway ride there (and unavoidable 90 minute ride back). We had breakfast, watch a Louis Theroux documentary and then I headed out. I met Jenny and Kwangho and COEX where we had a big lunch and then headed off to the aquarium. Little Jenny seemed very excited to see me and actually wouldn't stop dragging me everywhere. I was happy that she remembered me actually, as she never used to. We saw the aquarium, which was actually very impressive and got to play with a very cute two year old until well in to the afternoon when it got to being nap time (I'm not sure for who). We parted ways and I went to catch up with Mike, Kris and their friend Greg who I had met in Daegu a few weeks ago and is actually from Kamloops B.C. They were eating Mexican food, which to be honest didn't really look that good and beer which did. It was clear that their night had been far longer than mine but Greg seemed awake enough to catch up with and Kris was more or less alive. Mike was there :P We then moved to a patio and had a couple beers and chatted until 8 when Mike and I had to get a cab to get our 9pm train. Midnight and I was home in Daegu. A great Seoul weekend that actually was very light on the wallet, though I am looking forward to a quiet week.
Friday night was when the real Seoul trip started. Kris had left a few things in Daegu before he moved to Seoul so Mike and I were taking them up to him and spending the night at his place is east Gangnam before going our own ways on Saturday. We took the KTX and got to Kris' around one. He has an apartment in a great area with a real neighbourhood feel. It's small though. Like three of us sleeping took up the entire floor space. But to live in the heart of Seoul it is worth it. the neighbourhood is amazing though, a real neighbourhood feel. There is a little strip but it seems to close very early, though Sincheon is 10 minutes away in a cab so if we had really wanted to get going...... In the end we settled on a bbq and bed by 3.
The next day we all got up and headed across Seoul to Ilsan. I was off to see Bobby and they were both off to visit friends in Ilsan. I got off at Juyeop after a 90 minute train ride and dropped my stuff off at Bobby's place. It was threatening to rain all day so we did a bit of sightseeing between rainfalls or in the drizzle. Ilsan has a huge lake park and is generally a very affluent suburb or Seoul, though because it is technically outside of Seoul prices are kept down a bit real estate wise and food wise so housing is much better for the same price than you would get in Seoul proper and food is closer in cost to Daegu than Seoul. We hung out and swapped vacation stories before meeting several of his friends including his old coteacher, her sister and their cousins. Although only Eun Young was bilingual the rest of us managed to put enough English/Korean/alcohol together to have conversation. After that Bobby insisted on taking me to a Chinese place that had lamb, a meat that is very popular with many mainland Chinese but all but impossible to get in Korea. It was delicious and worth the midnight dinner. After that we went back to Bobby's and crashed.
Despite my joke about translating liquor we actually hadn't had that much so we were both up at 930 fresh and ready to go. I had planned to meet Jenny, Kwangho and little Jenny at COEX to see the Seoul Aquarium (back in east Gangnam) and though Bobby was invited he had some prep work to do and so decided against the 90 minute subway ride there (and unavoidable 90 minute ride back). We had breakfast, watch a Louis Theroux documentary and then I headed out. I met Jenny and Kwangho and COEX where we had a big lunch and then headed off to the aquarium. Little Jenny seemed very excited to see me and actually wouldn't stop dragging me everywhere. I was happy that she remembered me actually, as she never used to. We saw the aquarium, which was actually very impressive and got to play with a very cute two year old until well in to the afternoon when it got to being nap time (I'm not sure for who). We parted ways and I went to catch up with Mike, Kris and their friend Greg who I had met in Daegu a few weeks ago and is actually from Kamloops B.C. They were eating Mexican food, which to be honest didn't really look that good and beer which did. It was clear that their night had been far longer than mine but Greg seemed awake enough to catch up with and Kris was more or less alive. Mike was there :P We then moved to a patio and had a couple beers and chatted until 8 when Mike and I had to get a cab to get our 9pm train. Midnight and I was home in Daegu. A great Seoul weekend that actually was very light on the wallet, though I am looking forward to a quiet week.
Monday, August 13, 2012
Korea and Japan
I was asked several times on my trip what I thought of Korea vs. Japan. What I liked more, didn't like etc. Both Japanese and Koreans have asked me and frankly, I don't get it. I found Korea to be MUCH more like Taiwan or Hong Kong than I did like Japan. I also found Fukuoka much more like Vancouver or Sydney than I did Busan (the obvious comparison). It's not really fair to do a comparison having lived in Korea for three years vs. only visiting part of one Japanese island for a week so take it in that context.
As a group the Japanese are fantastic. Quiet, very polite, disciplined and exceedingly helpful. Koreans seem to have few problems with yelling at each other at three feet apart, chewing loudly and spitting, lighting up a cigarette, cutting in line at any opportunity or just being loud. At first glance the Japanese are, well more polite. However, I found have found that Koreans are friendlier, or at least more willing to just walk up to someone who is lost or confused and help them out. I have been clearly looking for something in Korea and had Koreans come up to me to ask me if I needed help, show me around and generally go out of their way to make sure I enjoyed my time or found what I needed to find. The Japanese were amazingly kind as well, IF I approached them and asked for help. That could just be cultural, but that comparison could also be made between Taiwanese/Japanese.
That kindness to foreigners in Korea is extended to transportation, which Koreans do amazingly well. Signs everywhere in four languages, easy transfers and one fare card works in most major cities. The intercity trains are well labelled and idiot proof. If you get lost on the Seoul subway you are clearly not paying attention or just not that bright. In Japan you'd better read Japanese or you are in trouble. I have never been lost in Korea the way I was lost on my Saturday in Fukuoka, not once.
If I had to sum up the difference it's this: Japan opened to the west in 1868. They studied abroad, allowed westerners in and by 1900 were the envy of all of Asia, having ended their brief period as the victims of colonialism (but before undertaking their own). In contrast Korea's place as a G20 member and among the leaders of the world is new, like the last 20 years new. Go back to 1982 and Korea was a third world country. While you (or perhaps your parents) were listening to Blue Oyster Cult and Supertramp and watching the MASH finale Koreans were working 12 hour days, six days a week for maybe $200 USD a month. There wasn't much cash or time left over for records and T.V, which were was highly censored under a military dictatorship anyway. In contrast the Japanese, who admittedly were also working 12 hour days, were also listening to B.O.C and Supertramp (or their Japanese equivalent) and watching their own T.V and movies comparable to MASH. Deep Purple made live records in Tokyo in 1973, that would not have been an option in Korea (or really anywhere else in Asia at the time). This isn't to, say that Japan doesn't have its own culture, because of course it has an amazing one stretching back over 1500 years, but Japan seems more integrated in to the modern global world, probably as a result of being integrated in the modern world for so long. In contrast Koreans have only been allowed to leave their country without permission of the government since 1986. In that context it makes sense that Fukuoka is more like Sydney than Busan.
But after some time in Japan, an amazing country that I will visit again many times I am sure, I am happy I chose Korea to spend these few years of my life.
As a group the Japanese are fantastic. Quiet, very polite, disciplined and exceedingly helpful. Koreans seem to have few problems with yelling at each other at three feet apart, chewing loudly and spitting, lighting up a cigarette, cutting in line at any opportunity or just being loud. At first glance the Japanese are, well more polite. However, I found have found that Koreans are friendlier, or at least more willing to just walk up to someone who is lost or confused and help them out. I have been clearly looking for something in Korea and had Koreans come up to me to ask me if I needed help, show me around and generally go out of their way to make sure I enjoyed my time or found what I needed to find. The Japanese were amazingly kind as well, IF I approached them and asked for help. That could just be cultural, but that comparison could also be made between Taiwanese/Japanese.
That kindness to foreigners in Korea is extended to transportation, which Koreans do amazingly well. Signs everywhere in four languages, easy transfers and one fare card works in most major cities. The intercity trains are well labelled and idiot proof. If you get lost on the Seoul subway you are clearly not paying attention or just not that bright. In Japan you'd better read Japanese or you are in trouble. I have never been lost in Korea the way I was lost on my Saturday in Fukuoka, not once.
If I had to sum up the difference it's this: Japan opened to the west in 1868. They studied abroad, allowed westerners in and by 1900 were the envy of all of Asia, having ended their brief period as the victims of colonialism (but before undertaking their own). In contrast Korea's place as a G20 member and among the leaders of the world is new, like the last 20 years new. Go back to 1982 and Korea was a third world country. While you (or perhaps your parents) were listening to Blue Oyster Cult and Supertramp and watching the MASH finale Koreans were working 12 hour days, six days a week for maybe $200 USD a month. There wasn't much cash or time left over for records and T.V, which were was highly censored under a military dictatorship anyway. In contrast the Japanese, who admittedly were also working 12 hour days, were also listening to B.O.C and Supertramp (or their Japanese equivalent) and watching their own T.V and movies comparable to MASH. Deep Purple made live records in Tokyo in 1973, that would not have been an option in Korea (or really anywhere else in Asia at the time). This isn't to, say that Japan doesn't have its own culture, because of course it has an amazing one stretching back over 1500 years, but Japan seems more integrated in to the modern global world, probably as a result of being integrated in the modern world for so long. In contrast Koreans have only been allowed to leave their country without permission of the government since 1986. In that context it makes sense that Fukuoka is more like Sydney than Busan.
But after some time in Japan, an amazing country that I will visit again many times I am sure, I am happy I chose Korea to spend these few years of my life.
Fukushima Mutants
I read this story today on butterfly larvae collected near Fukushima in Japan and how the high levels of radiation have caused. It's amazing in a sad way, as these will be passed down through the next generations. The experiment as just done with butterflies so we have no idea how this will affect animals with much longer reproductive time frames (including humans).
Of course you know what this means?
Of course you know what this means?
Monday, August 6, 2012
Kyushu Day Six
This was our last day in Kyushu but since our flight didn't leave until 6:50 we still had most of the day and opted to head to the giant Buddha east of Hakata proper. I'm amazed this isn't a major tourist attraction. In fact the only reason I think it isn't is that it was only built in 1995, whereas many temples in Japan are a thousand years old. We got to the temple and walked through the jungle surrounded by Buddhist images and incense before ending at the giant Buddha.
that's me in front.
another huge statue
mountains from the temple
The Buddha was amazing but after about twenty minutes the heat and need to get to the airport took over our need to hang out in the mountains so we hopped on the train to Hakata station and the subway to the airport. I'll also point out that we had all out stuff with us at this time, mostly clothes but carrying a backpack like that in the mountains when it's 33 outside is draining at the best of times.
We got to Fukuoka Airport a little earlier than needed but were happy to get changed and enjoy the aircon before checking in and getting back to Gimhae. It was then a quick bus up to Daegu and home by 11 to work the next day.
Kyushu, or at least the part of it that I saw, was amazing and well worth the time and money to see it.
Kyushu Day Five
If we had a bad day, this was it. Not because it wasn't fun, but because getting around Japan if you don't read Japanese can be infuriating at times and this was never more true than on the Japanese rail lines, which are mostly privately owned, rarely connect and are guaranteed to get you lost. This happened to us on JR Kyushu, where you buy a ticket based on price and not destination, no tracks are labelled in English, trains that stop at random stations and make you transfer and stations that aren't really labelled either. This turned a 40 minute train ride to Uminonakamichi in to a 2.5 hours adventure that only ended when we asked a very sweet Japanese girl for directions. She proceeded to pull out her smart phone, give us detailed direction and get us on our way. Transportation in Japan is surprisingly terrible, but the Japanese people are so sweet that you just kinda figure it out.
Anyway, we ended up out on the peninsula where there was Marine world, a promenade and a Ferry pier. We spent a couple of hours looking around and enjoyed the scenery.
Anyway, we ended up out on the peninsula where there was Marine world, a promenade and a Ferry pier. We spent a couple of hours looking around and enjoyed the scenery.
The park
Ferry Pier and Hakata Bay
Promenade
Afterwards we took the ferry back to Hakata pier and hung out there until six, when we decided to hit up a second beer garden. Another 4000yen but again well worth it. However, unlike the last one we did not carry on afterwards, as we were both exhausted. We hopped the subway back to Hakata station and back to the hostel for sleep.
Sunday, August 5, 2012
Kyushu Day Four
Day four started a bit late and a bit rough, but we managed to get up and out before noon which was okay because on Friday we were off to Momomachi to see Fukuoka Tower, sit on the beach and go to a Japanese ball game.
First we grabbed a huge coffee and a litre of water and then headed to the subway. It was sunny and clean skies as far as we could see, perfect for a tower. Actually one thing I noticed in Fukuoka in general is how clean the air is. There's no smog anywhere. We got off the subway and walked to the Fukuoka Yahoo! Dome (Yahoo.com owning the naming rights) and then walked along the beach to the tower.
While certainly not the tallest building in the world, or even Japan, the Fukuoka Tower is still the tallest building in Kyushu and offers spectacular views of the city and Hakata Bay.
First we grabbed a huge coffee and a litre of water and then headed to the subway. It was sunny and clean skies as far as we could see, perfect for a tower. Actually one thing I noticed in Fukuoka in general is how clean the air is. There's no smog anywhere. We got off the subway and walked to the Fukuoka Yahoo! Dome (Yahoo.com owning the naming rights) and then walked along the beach to the tower.
While certainly not the tallest building in the world, or even Japan, the Fukuoka Tower is still the tallest building in Kyushu and offers spectacular views of the city and Hakata Bay.
Fukuoka Tower
While much smaller than Tokyo Tower, it is
nonetheless still taller than Godzilla.
Hakata Bay looking northwest
Hakata Bay looking east
We spent a good amount of time in the tower before heading down to get our tickets and watch the game. The Momochi area is actually very cool, having a southern California vibe to it. We got to the dome, grabbed two tickets and ate.
The game started at six and it was the Fukuoka Softbank Hawks, The 2011 Japan Series winner against the Seibu Lions. The game itself started bad for the Hawks, who pulled their started in the first after he gave up two runs off of four hits and beaned a batter. The bullpen took over and did well in what was eventually a 3-2 loss for the Hawks.
The Yahoo! Dome
Inside the stadium
Look who's the DH.
This child simply could not believe what had sat down behind him.
After the game ended we grabbed some food but, feeling more than a little beat opted for bed by 11.
Kyushu Day Three
Day three started early, as we were making a bus trip out to Karatsu so see Karatsu-jo, a castle from feudal times (which admittedly has been reconstructed from scratch after WWII). It is a totally authentic replica, using traditional building methods etc. Actually in Japan most sites outside of Kyoto are replicas. During the war allied command specifically avoided bombing Kyoto as it was seen as culturally significant and didn't have much industry anyway. The result is that Kyoto was left virtually untouched by U.S forces and remains as it looked before the war. The rest of the country, including the historical buildings, were all rebuilt. However, the Japanese do such a great job of it that if you didn't know that, it would fool most people. Karatsu-jo is no exception.
Karatsu-jo
The town itself feels very small but it has a certain charm to it. We got directions from a nurse and walked to the castle in about 20 minutes. The castle grounds and small by European castle standards but offer a fantastic view or the Sea of Japan.
a shot from the castle to the port
looking out to sea
again
The inside of the castle was a small museum that, while interesting and amusing at time, was not worth the 400yen admission price. They had a few old swords on display and samurai armour but most of the rest was replicas and displays targeting children. After the castle we walked back to Karatsu station and made our way to Hakata station to try a very modern Japanese custom, the Beer Garden.
A Beer Garden is costly, we paid 4000yen per person (about $50USD) but it is all you can eat and drink. It gave us a chance to sample a few traditional Japanese liquors and sample Kirin draft repeatedly. The food was also amazing. Sushi and roast beef together and all cooked in the traditions of where it came from (the roast beef tasted like my grandmothers). It was a three hour time limit and at 9 our very cute waitress came over to tell us it was time to head off. Watching normally very somber and reserved Japanese salarymen get drunk was quite a sight and a unique experience. We then walked over to a place near Hakata station that looked like something out of a movie. Standing room only and we were the only white people in there, which attracted a bit of attention and conversation from the locals.
With us having no Japanese and them only basic English
we weren't able to do much, but it was still a lot of fun.
After drinks Mike and I headed out to relax at a patio (suitably cut) and then headed back to the hostel late. It meant getting up later the next day but we both needed a party night in Japan and we had it.
Kyushu Day Two
Day two was a trip out to Dazaifu to see the ancient capital and a bit of traditional Japan. While I think anyone who has been to Kyoto my find it a bit underwhelming I was amazed by it. The train out was simple enough once we asked a few people, as there was no signage in English anywhere for transportation (another common theme in Japan). We popped out of the station and were met almost right away by a long, brick road lined with traditional shops (not always selling traditional stuff).
We looked around for a while, saw a few tour groups and then opted to head to the Kyushu National Museum, one of only three national museums in Japan. Once inside though it as a bit underwhelming, with a few interesting artifacts but in total it was only one floor. By this time it was getting to be one and we needed a coffee so we ducked in to a Starbucks and then a very traditional noodle house serving really good food. n hour there and we were ready for a two km walk to the temples and government ruins on the other end of town. It was actually a nice walk and were it not 34 degrees in a subtropical climate it would have been a real treat. The other ruins didn't really live up to the first half of Dazaifu but the mountain views were spectacular. Actually throughout Kyushu the mountain views were spectacular, as Kyushu straddles that fine line between the tropical and temperate zone, so you can get huge trees out of the amazon growing next to trees you'd expect to see in a boreal forest in Korea.
Main Street Dazaifu
intersections in most cities have traffic lights
The walk itself is scenic and at the end of it there is an old Japanese garden and pond and a huge Shinto shrine. The shine, called Tenman-gu was huge.
Tenman-gu
this shot does not do it justice
After the walk we hopped on the train back to Hakata and made our way out to Tenjin, the downtown core of Fukuoka, to meet a woman I met through couchsurfing.org named Jun ko Nagashima. She was amazing, taking us to a great noodle house and then the fireworks festival at Ohori Park. Watching fireworks while sitting on castle ruins surrounded by Japanese in traditional clothing (they actually wear kimono's a lot) was an amazing experience. We had hoped to meet again on Saturday but my Korean phone does not work in Japan and Fukuoka wifi is almost non-existent with the result that we couldn't co-ordinate a time . I hope we can meet up again in Japan or Korea though.
After that we walked around Tenjin, seeing the sights and gawking at some of the stranger sides of Japanese fashion, but by then we were tired and the subway was right there so we opted for hostel and bed.
Kyushu Day One
The trip actually began Monday night when Mike and I headed out of Daegu to get a hotel in Sa Sang, the suburb near Gimhae airport. We were catching an early flight there in Air Busan and thought it would be easier just to stay in Gimhae. We grabbed a place and went out for a few beers, getting in to a Chinese run pub and a makgeolli place in the process. We then went back to our 25000 won ($22USD) hotel and crashed.
We got up, got to Gimhae via the light rail, and by 1pm we were checked in to our hostel, the Khaosan Fukuoka. Actually it's the best hostel I've ever stayed in and more than worth getting a room in if you can (book in advance). Clean, quiet and only 2400 yen a night. With only half the day finished we opted to head to Gion, north of Hakata station (which we were a short walk from). Gion has a few old temples, some dating back over 1000 years, though most have undergone major restoration since WWII. There were some amazing shrines and temples.
We got up, got to Gimhae via the light rail, and by 1pm we were checked in to our hostel, the Khaosan Fukuoka. Actually it's the best hostel I've ever stayed in and more than worth getting a room in if you can (book in advance). Clean, quiet and only 2400 yen a night. With only half the day finished we opted to head to Gion, north of Hakata station (which we were a short walk from). Gion has a few old temples, some dating back over 1000 years, though most have undergone major restoration since WWII. There were some amazing shrines and temples.
This pagoda is five stories
these are graves, some are 1000 years old.
We spent a few hours there in the heat (it was 33-35 every day) then ducked out for a coffee. And how the Japanese make coffee. Coffee shops are everywhere in Korea but they rarely serve actual coffee. It's these weak Americano's where you need to drink 8 just to have them take effect. Not so in Japan. After that we took a long walk through a market selling various street food, clothes and Busan makgeolli. Actually the Korean influence was everywhere in Fukuoka. Most signs were in Japanese, Korean and English (in that order) and I met Koreans almost every day. e didn't buy anything but we did hang out before walking to Canal City, a 5 story mega complex built along one of the canals. It was a Tuesday afternoon but still very busy and yet oddly quiet (that became a theme in Japan).
Canal City
Once Canal city was finished we grabbed a beer and sat at a patio enjoying the view of the rivers and relaxing. By this time it was getting dark and we were both beat so we opted to head back to the hostel, relax on the roof there and get an early night.
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